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Clockwork Wino

'Hornet' Stryfe

Thanks for the feedback on the photos I posted of my ĎHornetí Stryfe yesterday. By request Iíve created this post so I can go into a little more detail about the paint and build process. As I mentioned in the original post, Iíve drawn a lot of inspiration and advice from various places so Iíll try to credit as I go along and apologies to anyone I miss.

The sharkís teeth on the front were filled with some plasticard which was glued in place with Devcon then filled behind with Milliput.

(Credit to OldNoob for the inspiration for this)

The motor cover was created by scanning the blaster on a flatbed scanner, tracing the outline of the motor bulge and then laser cutting a series of pieces of acrylic which were sandwiched together to the desired height and glued in place.

The Hornet logo was created on Illustrator (modified from some internet artwork) and then cut into the top-plate.  The whole lot was then filled with Milliput and sanded flush.

The expanded battery tray cover was created in a similar manner, sandwhiching together a series of cut sheets to get the required depth.  The blaster runs off a 0.95 mAH Graphene Lipo so it didnít need to be particularly deep.

The whole blaster was then sanded through the grits to 800, removing all the digicam and the detail on the grips.

Everything was sprayed with black primer, sanded down again, sprayed with primer again, sanded back once more and then the whole blaster was finally sprayed with a dark silver car spray paint (Halfords rattle-can).

I drybrushed the blaster with silver acrylic paint and then masked off the areas I wanted to remain silver with masking tape. I then painted dabs of latex masking fluid onto the corners and anywhere I wanted paint chips to show.

Once this was fully dry I sprayed a total of 3 coats of Halfords yellow paint over the whole blaster and, once dry, the masking tape was removed.

The stripes were sprayed on to the Red-Dot scope after masking off and once again left to dry.

(Credit to OldNoob for his thread here:

Now the messy bit:  I rubbed off the latex mask everywhere I could find it to reveal the silver paint below. This resulted in small flecks of yellow paint everywhere so make sure you do this outside!

(Credit to br8nd4n and his post here for the technique:

I then used water-based oil paints to weather the blaster.  Layers of black and brown were applied with a paintbrush into the nooks and crannies and then wiped clean with a rag, leaving the paint in the recesses. Layers were built up and it was possible to mix the colours together on the blaster due to the slow drying times.  Speaking of which, in an unheated garage through the summer months, it still took 3 weeks for the oils to dry so this is not a technique for someone in a hurry!

(Credit: I  saw this technique being used by Adam Savage and also Punished Props on their respective YouTube channels.  Also thanks to UK Nerf War for his advice on this matter.)

Then came the rust.  I used Modern Masters rust paint and activator and dabbed the iron paint all over the where I would expect rust to form. I then applied the activator with a brush and left it 24 hours. Where I wanted more advanced rust I then applied more activator or more of the iron paint as appropriate.  Once dry I sealed everything with several coats of Halfords Matt Lacquer.

(Credit: I Ďve seen this technique in several places but Kamui Cosplay has a video on building a Gauss rifle where they demonstrate it very well.

Internals are fairly straight-forward; Xtreme Pro 180s with Worker wheels in a stock cage running through a BSUK high amp loom using the stock rev switch and a MOSFET to engage the motors.  As mentioned before, it uses a Turnigy Graphene 0.95mAa 2S 65C pack which fits beautifully into the expanded tray.

I included a brass dart guide and barrel after watching videos by 498 Nerf and Bobo on YouTube.  

Iíve no idea how it affects the velocity as I havenít tested it before and after but I figured that since Iím throwing this kitchen sink at this build it would be worth giving a try and I can always take it out later should I want. Iíve not had any jams yet but should that happen it will be harder to clear them (hence the access hole in the LHS of the blaster) but has the fringe benefit of keeping the darts away from the Deans connector for the motor cage.


Looks amazing!!! I really like how you fabricated your own pieces for the motor and battery covers!I would say beat the shit out of that foregrip with some chains or dry brush it because it is throwing the look off being so fresh Very Happy

fantastic job, chapeau.

The detailed explaination of the techniques is much appreciated, thank you for sharing that. Great use of the rust paints, Deluxe Materials make a similar product and there are a number of great techniques that we can port across from military modellers, many of which are nicely illustrated in this build.
Superb work all round, one of the cleanest "dirty" builds I have seen all year, well done.

That is ace, love some of the detailing especially.

This is absolutely beautiful! Actually gorgeous!

That's great
You'd never think it was plastic
The Dark Kitten

Its stunning!
Wouldn't want to war with it just in fear of ruining the beauty of a paint job.

Awesome, great write up as well.


I bought a laser with a mind to do this sort of thing but I've never got around to it. It mostly just sits there collecting dust but you've inspired me to fire it up again.

What laser do you have?

That is beautiful, some of the techniques used are great, specifically the latex masking fluid and rust paint. I also wouldn't want tio use this due to how gorgeous it is, but would feel amazing if i did!
Clockwork Wino

Thanks for all the feedback, it's a project that took quite a few months, on and off, to complete so it's great to have such a positive response.

I agree about the foregrip, I'm not a huge fan of it aesthetically as I feel it spoils the lines of the blaster but there's no denying how good the handling is. It'll be under the dry-brush before long.

Regarding the laser cutter, it's an 80 watt HPC laser, 600x400 work area. Not the most powerful but it will go through 10mm acrylic if you ask it nicely. I run up the designs in Adobe Illustrator before exporting to a .dxf format for cutting.

And yes, I'm a little over-precious with the blaster at the moment. It's not been used in a war yet and the first time I scratch it, I will cry Razz

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