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Treezy

Can you help me improve my Hyperfire? (Other than binning it

Iíll try and keep this briefÖ.

Picked up a Hyperfire for £20 in Tesco the other week, and while it operates really smoothly and quietly, the actual firing performance is pretty terrible. So Iíve cracked the shell open and removed the electrical mag lock and electrical jam door lock, as well as the resistors on the motors. It revs a bit quicker and faster, but still no noticeable improvement to ROF or FPS.

So Iím thinking of doing a basic upgrade by fitting chunkier wiring and putting in a slightly pokier battery source (nothing silly like a 3s Ė probably just 2x IMR). Iíll be using the stock motors and stock switches. Iím not looking for massive ROF increase, but a greater dart velocity and range would be nice.

The original wiring loom looks fairly complex to me; bearing in mind that I havenít really touched electrics since year 8 of school (about 2 decades ago). Iíve done basic rewires on Stryfes, Rayven, Modulus and Demolisher, but this will be my first rewire involving a full auto firing mechanism. However, I think Iíve figured out how to simplify it, but wanted to run it past some of you guys first. Again, I need to reiterate itís a basic wiring and battery upgrade; nothing fancy.

So the way I see it, there are two separate circuit loops required; one for the rev trigger and motors, one for the firing trigger and conveyor motor. Iím imagining them running something like this:

Circuit 1: Rev trigger and motors
+tive wire (red) from +tive battery terminal to middle pin on rev trigger micro switch.
+tive wire (blue) from bottom pin on rev trigger micro switch to +tive motor tabs.
Ėtive wire (black) from Ėtive motor tabs straight back to Ėtive battery terminal.

Circuit 2: Firing trigger and conveyor motor
+tive wire (red) from +tive battery terminal to middle pin on firing trigger micro switch.
+tive wire (blue) from bottom pin on firing trigger micro switch to +tive tab of conveyor motor.
Ėtive wire (black) from Ėtive tab of conveyor motor straight back to Ėtive battery terminal.

My concern is that if I run both circuits from the same +tive & Ėtive battery terminals, theyíre going to somehow interfere with each other in operation. I know they shouldnít because each circuit is broken until the relevant micro switches are pressed, but I canít be sure.

Is there anything Iím missing here guys?

Again, I need to reiterate this is a basic upgrade, not a top tier mod. Yes I know this is a crap blaster when compared to the like of the Rapidstrike, but thatís not the point. Please donít waste time telling me to bin the blaster or fit a new FWC and 180s on a 3s LiPo.
OldNoob

Rewire it, run it on 2s lipo with the rest stock, or rewire it, swap the conveyor motor for a Rhino, which needs a bit of padding to the motor aperture or Gavin makes a printed adaptor, then Rhinos on the flywheels. Ideally a non canted cage as well.

YOU CANNOT RUN ANY FULL AUTOS ON IMR. You are 10A MINIMUM stall with that.
Boff

The problem you've got is that your project aims are fundamentally opposed to what you're willing to do. In order to produce more range and velocity, you have to deliver more current. To do that you have to remove parasitic resistance from the loom ergo a rewire with 18AWG wire and either a FET or upgraded switches. That'll make everything else then worthwhile.

ON correctly points out that 14500 IMRs on 3 motors (even stock ones) is a bad idea. 5A each at stall puts them above the safe discharge line of IMRs which is usually 8-10A. A dinky 2S LiPo would raise the velocity of the system slightly by raising the RPM of the motors (not by a lot, you're only adding one or two volts) while adding all the current your motors will ask for. I'd leave the forward cage alone, just rewire the stock motors, remove the high pass filter inductors (normally called resistors in certain quarters) and clean things up a touch.

As for your worry about interference, nope. You're wiring two circuits in parallel from the same battery so there's nothing to worry about.

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