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Justajolt

Different Barricade. Rewire and Worker Flywheels



I found the soldering MUCH easier this time because of all the advice and help from previous threads, so thank you everyone!



The worker flywheels were tough to get onto the motors' spindles, but there they are.

I also had to shave a few bits from the motor housing to allow the worker flywheels to fit: the funnel shaped dart guide and the two rear most supports from the orange motor cage unit. There's still more than enough plastic to support itself within the blaster.



There were also various gaps intended for the passage of wire through the blaster which needed enlarging due to the thicker wire now being used. Locks also removed, along with jam door.

I didn't wire in a LiPo jack this time. I have another Barricade with eroded contacts in the battery tray which which will be another LiPo Barricade.

Subjectively, using 3 Red Efests, it fires harder than my LiPo Barricade with no rewire and it screams! The worker flywheels, however, make it sound much, much smoother than stock. More of a high pitched hum.

Darts now fly slightly to the left of where I'm pointing the blaster. I think this means that the flywheels need to be further down the spindles, but they're such a tight fit they'll only go further with great effort. They WILL NOT come off as easily as the stock flywheels, so bear this in mind if you're tempted (for whatever bizarre reason) to try this yourself!

I've also run it side by side with a stock blaster, running both on 2 Efests plus dummy to compare. After this and the Rayven, I'm fully converted to rewiring. The difference in the pitch of the motors is stark.

I also plan on wiring in a rev-switch on the handle of the blaster itself, as opposed to trigger operated within the blaster housing.
OldNoob

We put the microswitch on the front of the main trigger, wired to the common and Normally Closed, that way when you go to pull the main trigger it automatically starts the flywheels. You can leave the mechanical trigger lock in place as a sliding safety. See my barricade video for details. I also put an extra Deans connector in the stock block so you can fully split the shell halves.
Nice job though! Well done.
Davera

What Fly wheels did you use?

Take it this means you don't need me to test the Rapidstrike ones in my barricade?
OldNoob

I used Stockade flywheels. The RS ones are all awful, not even close to round, put them in the bin where they belong! Don't pull the Worker ones off. Expect some chrono figures from mine shortly.
Justajolt

KK. Thanks for the tip about the triggerswitch, ON! One more mod post coming...
Northwind

I had mine built that way, but didn't like it much- ended up adding a standalone rev trigger like other flywheelers have. The shell work was a pain in the arse, though.
Justajolt

I'm still going to experiment with places for rev up switches on one of my barricades. I quite like the trigger rev although I do have to be careful not to pull too far and rotate.

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