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OldNoob wrote:
You then need fluted faux barrel instead of rifled and some care in fitting and aligning the cage.

Not sure if I should ask this in a new post, but what kind of length and ID would you recommend for the fluted faux barrel? You seem to suggest the worker stuff might work in a reddit (don't have any left over bits from other blasters). Or should it start from the point where the dart leaves the flywheels?

Thanks for dispelling the untested random info out there.

Yes you should make a new post.

I simply replace any rifled faux barrel with fluted, usually from a dead Raider or LSFG. I don't buy the worker barrel, it's hard to get the right one. No dart guide of any kind should be required after the flywheels, simply use better wheels fitted more precisely and a correctly selected dart to get better precision.
Keep any faux barrel after the flywheels as short as possible if you want max velocity. Every 100mm of faux barrel equates to 1-2fps average loss. If you are working with a blaster like the modulus that has long faux barrel then compensate with better motors and cage/wheels.
If you are working with an aftermarket cage, like the red artifact, set the faux barrel to start immediately after the cage. If you have some 3d printed cage, screw that and get metal.

Perfect, thanks.

I have just fitted balanced worker wheels from BSUK to the rhinos and stock cages in my first stryfe mod following your YouTube video and comments from a useful britnerd post. Greatly appreciated. Now I just need to solder the MOSFET kit and connect the 3S, and we're all set.

Thanks for all the help.  Smile

Well done. You don't strictly need a MOSFET with Rhinos, they are only 8A each. That set up will give you a great Britnerf war blaster that can be used for any of the main UK games and one that can easily be dropped in power by using a 2s pack for things like HvZ or mixed kids games which sometimes have lower limits.
Consider making the motor block plug in as well, it's worth the extra Deans connector.
Post pictures in the "works in progress" thread in modifications and be sure to post some more pictures when it's done!

OldNoob wrote:
If you have some 3d printed cage, screw that and get metal.


Thanks. That was my plan as hoping to make it along to Bristol Blast in a few months time. Thought the MOSFET means I could upgrade to Hellcats or others if the urge takes me, although may have made it more complicated for myself!

Have some Deans ready to go after watching your vid, but hadn't thought about possibly using a 2S to drop the power. Good tip. Hadn't seen that thread, thanks for the heads up.

3D printed cages can melt with some motors, especially higher crushes and not all are well made. Aluminium also has better vibration damping properties and many of the printed cages rely on brass dart guides to compensate for their rougher surface finish.
A metal cage like the Artifact will always be better.

Why wait? Bristol Blast is this weekend. The majority of players are running fairly light mods or stock, just turn up and fling done foam.

OldNoob wrote:
3D printed cages can melt with some motors, especially higher crushes and not all are well made.

Technically a thing for another thread but CNC made cages are superior to printed ones. Even the best printers don't have the repeatibility to need for something precise like a flywheel cage. There's a reason BSUK have elected to import CNC aluminium ones and not print their own or Open Flywheel Projects'. Smile

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