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NewsonNerf

FK180 Rapid-Pistol overview (its a long one)

This is a rather in depth look at my Rapid-Pistol, I would really like to share my experiences about building not only a 180 RS but a Pistol sized one. Throughout this post you may realize the similarities to Tom/FDS/OldNoob Rapidstrikes and Rapid-Pistols. He is definitely the person who influenced me the most to construct one of these for myself.

I'm going to start with the original purpose of this RS, it started life as a MTB Rhino build with a BSUK switch pate kit. It was very basic running off of a 3S. I then purchased the RP kit from BSUK, it took a few weeks to arrive due to the shutdown of the website. I recived it after bout 4 weeks. In that time i had purchased 2 more FK180's from eBay, i have checked that they are both legit.

I started the build with the shell cutting, this was done with a mini Hacksaw, it gave me a surprisingly clean cut on both the front and the back, i chose to do each shell half separately to give me some leeway on where i made my cut. When fitting the stock block that is bonded into the shell, i did encounter some problems. I had cut the shell at the wrong rib line so the gap was way too small. I then checked Tom's video to see how he had done his. I pushed back my cut to allow the block to fit and after some light sanding, it dropped right in. The stock mounting part wouldn't fit any of my stocks so i had to sand down the edges and take off some of the print lines. I made the mistake of mounting the battery box, before feeding the wires through the channel. I ended up cutting a wider hole on the inside, extending into to wire trunking in the mag well. This allowed me to feed the 16awg leads directly through into the box.

The wiring on the inside consists of 16awg silicone wire for the main feeds, this includes the runs from and to the battery. It also includes the runs from the main rev trigger microswitch to the motors, then from the motors back to the common negative on the actuator microswitch. All of the other connections are 18awg jumping from each microswitch and to the pusher. The pusher and the flywheels are all Mabuchi FK180 SH3240 motors, these are featured in many of Tom's videos. The Lipo plug is a genuine Turnigy XT60 connector.

In the picture, you can see the Deans connector under the flywheels. This is to allow the motor block to be taken out easily for servicing or to replace the block. I have a set of MTB HoneyBadgers in a spare cage also fitted with a Deans that can be swapped very easily. In the magwell wire cover, there is a Diode. This it to protect from EMF. There is also a voltmeter fitted underneath the sling point. This is controlled by the jam door switch. This again is in the same place to where Tom puts his, i really like this location for the same reasons as he describes. Unlike Tom, i have chosen to make more of a housing or a shelf for the voltmeter instead of bracketing. This allows me to have a completely untouched voltmeter if i want to remove it. There is also some supporting material in the opposite shell half to prevent the voltmeter from being knocked out further.

Running this blaster i have a Turnigy Nanotech 950mah 2S Lipo, it has a C rating of 25c constant and a 50c burst. That equates to a 23.75 A continuos discharge, and a 47.5 A burst. This i know is underated for the motor combination so if anyone has any suggestions on another pack that i could use, i would be very grateful.

In the pictures you can see the variations of how i could run this blaster. I really like the look of the retalitor barrel and grip. Surprisingly I do enjoy the retaliator stock with this build. It allows me to have a really compact blaster with nothing pushing it away from me. I normaly dont go for the retaliator stock at is is rather small for someone over 6ft.

Overall id like to thank BSUK and FDS for formulating this amazing kit, I really enjoyed making this monster. If anyone would like to comment on the way it was made, if you have any questions or something you would add, I would be really up for that. I apologise for the misspelled words throughout this post as i am typing rather fast. Also my lens one my camera isnt really set up for 'macro' shots, i think a couple of the shots maybe out of focus.

http://imgur.com/a/bWkAb
Boff

What's with the bolt in the rear plate piece? Mostly curious to see what you've done with that. I don't see any photos of the exterior with the non-battery tray size visible.

The stock blocks are deliberately printed large to be sanded down because Hasbro vary the size of their sockets over batches. It's easier to print for the smallest socket and have people sand down rather than try and guess what size will fit. Smile

In terms of gratitude, you mostly want to send that OldNoob's way; I'm just the sorry grunt that he annoyed into getting it made despite my kicking and screaming.
NewsonNerf

Ah yes, the bolt in the rear block is sticking out about 3mm. This locates into a small washer that fits the bar perfectly. This gives some support to the non-glued side of the block. And I will add some more pictures of the off side.
blindgeekuk

Congratulations to a fellow rapid pistol builder! Your cuts look great and I love the way you've got the retaliatory stock matching up. Wiring look neat.

Enjoy the beast you've made, it can be a real game changer!
Justajolt

Much nicer than mine! Well built. Rapid pistols rock!
NewsonNerf

blindgeekuk wrote:
Congratulations to a fellow rapid pistol builder! Your cuts look great and I love the way you've got the retaliatory stock matching up. Wiring look neat.

Enjoy the beast you've made, it can be a real game changer!


Thanks a lot, I really enjoyed your post about yours. Hopefully you have a smooth Rapid-Pistol journey!
OldNoob

Well done, it's not an entry level build and you have made very clean work of it. Your battery should be 40c constant ideally, but the one you have is adequate, you are at 50A peak on stalls with a tri blade, you won't melt the pack you have. I run a 1000mah 40c 2s. I will get a link to it shortly.
NewsonNerf

OldNoob wrote:
Well done, it's not an entry level build and you have made very clean work of it. Your battery should be 40c constant ideally, but the one you have is adequate, you are at 50A peak on stalls with a tri blade, you won't melt the pack you have. I run a 1000mah 40c 2s. I will get a link to it shortly.


Brilliant thanks Tom! And yes I'd really appreciate that link.
OldNoob

Good but out of stock. Bloody hobbyking.
Graphene Hybrid masterrace in stock as well. This will run any combo up to Triple X/Wolverines.
NewsonNerf

I've already tried one of the graphenes in the box, it just won't go.
OldNoob

The one linked does fit, it's 1mm smaller than the one i put in mine, which is 75x35x14.
You have to run the leads right at the top and it only goes in one way round. I can show you if we meet at a Bristol Blast event some time, that was the pack size I have akways used in the URP.
Your present one is just safe, so don't panic.


Battery installed, balance lead top left under main lead. My top cover has less room as it has a logo on it.
NewsonNerf

Wow that's a tight fit, it almost looks like it was made to go in there! Thanks for that, now Ican have a more suited lipo to the build.
OldNoob

This one is smaller but has thinner leads and needs a plug change.
Dustybin

Wait, no MOSFET?! What is it with all these rapidpistols now? We have your's, BGUK's, Dazzle's and Franksie's.
Justajolt

If you'd been at GuN, you'd have seen my wrist mounted rapid pistol too! It's all about the full auto spray now!
Boff

Eh, FA spray is a phase. You grow out of it when you fight protracted engagements and learn the merits of precision, field position and a boat load of back up. Razz
blindgeekuk

Agreed. Bertha, when she's on top form, can fire a shot or two to determine angle and range, and then rain a precise shot onto the target, whereas Daredevil is a less precise beast.

Its credit to you and OldNoob though Boff, that kit, despite its minor issues (needs a bit of work to fit, and better instructions!) is incredible, and allows so many of us to produce amazing blasters
Dazzle740

Also I have to add mine isn't a rapid pistol! But still a full bodied rapid strike and also the one I'm using at the moment is rhino powered (standard pusher motor) but my new build which is on going at mo will be the tri-hellcat version but still it will be full bodied. Although I do appreciated the merits of the rapid pistol I just prefer the full bodied version too much to do a pistol version myself for. But that's just my opinion lol.

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