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Hydrodipping questions

Hiya, I have a few questions to ask about Hydrodipping which I haven't seen answered in the tutorials I've read/watched.

1. Can I hydrodip over components painted with acrylics, or does the colour coat have to be enamel?

2. What should I be looking for for a good clearcoat? I've previously used humbrol acrylic varnish spray, which has lasted exceptionally well over humbrol acryclic colour sprays, and I also have a can of Halfords clear lacquer which I've been unimpressed with so far, though that might just be because the plasticote main colour sprayed underneath applies in quite thick, tacky layers - not very nice.

3. Is laying the film over a test sprayed piece of material a reasonable way to get an idea of the final colour, or would it need a test dip?

4. Has anyone happened across a frost patterned film? Something along these lines:

I've failed to find what I'm after so far.

Yes, I've watched ON's tutorials on YT, I'm pretty sure I have the gist of it apart from the above.

Ta in advance Smile

Good guide to dipping in the vault not sure if you looked at this, might answer a couple of your questions. As for the other ones I'm not sure.

1- Hydrodip is only compatible with automotive paint- the activator is designed to work with them, not water based hobby paint.
2- Halfords car lacquer. If you want matt put the Halfords gloss on first, then a matt LACQUER, NOT VARNISH, as the two are chemically different and often react plus varnish sucks on blasters.
3- To test base colour you can put film on top, if the film has any colour on it remember a light base is best. Areas of clear backing will dissolve in the final dip. I always dip test.
Buy some "speedshapes" off ebay, it's what we use to test paint and dip.
4-Custom film can be made from any repeating pattern.

Activator- K2 is currently the best all round spray can activator.

General safety- You WILL need a full organic vapour mask and shouldn't spray activator  near pets, food, children and anywhere with poor ventilation. It's not a "mild" solvent. I do small bits in the bathroom with the extract on and the windows open. Everything else needs a separate space to home really, so if you are doing a massive shell like a stampede or vulcan I would advise working outside or in a garage with the door open.

Thanks, that clears up pretty much everything Smile I guess what I could do to test things would be to dip the leftover remnants of blaster shell I've nicked the internals from.

Wrt the K2, I'm assuming this is the stuff?

When you say custom film can be made from any repeating pattern, do you mean that there are services available to do this for you, or that you can buy the equipment to do it on a home inkjet? I've only found the latter, and as my printer is only A4 I couldn't make anything large enough to dip a primary-size blaster in.

Lastly, I'm planning to spray outside on the driveway, with the dog safely locked in. Working outside, would one of these be sufficient? They have a rubber valve in the mouthpiece and are mostly made out of some kind of multi-layer filter material.

If not I guess that's another 20 to stump up...

Thanks for getting back so quickly Smile

Neither of those masks is remotely suitable.
Example organic vapour mask. Beware cheap knock offs from Ebay, I only buy safety equipment from official 3M dealers or the paint shop.
Custom films are made by specialist printers, get your google out.

Ahh, that's a shame. I was just wondering as I've seen people demonstrating hydrodipping with no PPE at all, so I was wondering if it was just that little extra protection. Another thing for the list then, though I'm going to need to curtail my Nerfy spending as it's started worryingly spiraling...

Looks like custom dip films are one of those things where you find them as soon as you've asked... d'oh. This looks like what I'm after: though again, any holes burning through my pocket are being rapidly extinguished right now - I may be back to my original plan of some form of metallic icy blue.

From what I'm reading it sounds like custom, presumably inkjet, printed films need a little more care in handling than off-the-shelf rotary printed varieties, so it'd probably be best to start my hydrodipping adventure with readily available patterns.

Lots of people will do it without ppe, same as people will shoot 2-pack with just a dust mask or screw some random they met in a club without protection, doesn't make it smart. There's a lot of pretty bad practice in diy vids of all sorts and tbh, most of the time you'll get away with it...

(I'll not be holier than thou here, I'm not as careful as I should be with paints, solvents, blades, loud noises... Probably very few people are. But you know when you're doing it wrong)

If you want to suck Toluene and Xylene or derivatives both of which are category 4 hazardous by inhalation and skin contact be my guest. They make common household solvents look inert.
I will only ever advise the safe way to do a job. This forum is known for its high safety standards and I have worked with 2k paint for 20 years, both those chemicals are in 2k as well and are amongst some of the most horrible ones apart from isocyanates.
If that's too much for you, DON'T DIP.

FDT OldNoob wrote:

Worry ye not, I'm not about to dive in without having checked what I'm doing is safe beforehand. It looks like I'm just going to delay my adventures in hydrodipping for the time being to focus my Nerf budget into the projects I've already got rolling, until I can afford to get everything in one go.


Quoted text should not exceed the reply. I am not that interesting. ON

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