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Hyperfire - Future Mod Ideas

So I've been thinking of how the hyperfire could be improved further, and I have have had a few ideas. My first idea was to take advantage of the huge battery tray, and fit a second Lipo inside. My current setup is running on a 2S, so the extra lipo would be a 3S. There would be a multi stage main trigger or a separate switch on the shell to switch the pusher motor from the 2S to the 3S. This would allow for a short ROF boost. My second thought was to apply the Rapidstrike actuator switch to the Hyperfire. In the pictures you can see a very small micro switch mounted in the belt enclosure. As one of the teeth moves round, it flicks the switch. This would be paired with the rapidstrike wiring scheme. Overall, the switch would allow for more precise shots and prevent the classic half feed problems. The main problem with this switch is it's rating. It is not rated for 40A. It would need a mosfet to work safely. I'm not sure how this would be wired as the switch requires full use of the terminals.

I would love some feedback on theses ideas, or help in pursuit of them. If anyone has done one of these already then I'd love to hear from them. Of course I'm 100% okay with people using these (I know I don't have to say this but I just want to make sure).

i have already done a very similar thing with my hyperfire, which i feel worked really well to improve the standard blaster/
But the way i have  done it was to keep things as simply as possible. I basically have two circuits running through my hyperfire.
Circuit 1 runs from the 3s graphine Lipo through an uprated microswitch for the rev trigger then onto 2 hellcat motors housed in one of Dr Shnikkas aluminium cages.
Circuit 2 runs from the smaller 2s Lipo again through an unrated microswitch for the trigger then onto the standard belt motor, which i feel increases RoF to the limit of reliable shooting as any higher and you start experiencing belt/dart slippage.
as said the above keeps things really simple plus really improves the blaster, some of the GuN players can probably back up how hard it now hits lol

I'd personally favour switching in/out diodes rather than a separate pack. I'm not keen on multi-pack setups in general - for one thing it's an extra thing you need to charge (and not even something you can charge in parallel if it's an entirely different voltage) and secondly, as far is I see it, if one pack runs out whilst the other is still at a usable charge you've effectively wasted the additional capacity which you could have put into a single, larger, pack.

The cycle control switch addition is a good addition though. I did wonder if it would be possible although I agree you'd really need something a bit beefier. The switchgear and/or diodes don't actually need to be rated to 40A continuous (or even as much as 40A burst if we're only talking about the conveyor motor) although you probably should consider using at least a sub-mini if you can find/make the space for it. A "10A" Cherry DC2 or Omron SS-10 will be plenty for most aftermarket motors (both should be rated to handle 15-20A inrush current quite happily and have even survived being subjected to at least twice that when used as acceleration trigger switches - I wouldn't necessarily recommend doing that, and it will likely shorten their life a fair bit, but it does show how durable they are).

This might be asking a bit much but you wouldn't be able to get pictures of the individual gears (to be able to count all of the teeth) as well as measure the diameter of the final drive pulley (to the outside of the belt) and the length of the belt as if it were cut and laid out would you? I still have no idea what the effective ratio of the conveyor drive train works out to.

Yeah I'll do my best, I'll use calipers and a rule in the pictures.
UK Foam

Have you seen the Jase 3D Motor covers?

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