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Parallel Leaf Spring Stryfe Battery Tray + Torque Tuned

Hi Folks,

Been lurking around these parts for a little while and thought I would share what I've done to my son's Stryfe based on some of the stuff I've learned from here.  There's nothing new per say but I don't think I've seen this combination of mods before.  Happy to be corrected.

I will start by saying that I know this is not the most cost or time effective modification, nor is it likely to be the ultimate in Stryfe performance, but it worked out quite nicely based on my main criteria.  My son is only four so probably shouldn't be playing with a stock blaster if you place any faith in recommended age ranges, let alone a 3S lipo'd 180 stryfe Smile

Stock Stryfe performance seemed pretty crappy in terms of spin up time and my son loves to spam darts in quick succession, so I wanted to improve spin up time and run the thing off ncie and safe nimh AA batteries in the stock tray (as this is how it gets left in the toy box), and maintain the ability to throw in some 14500 IMRs for some extra spice now and again (I don;t leave these in the blaster).

Here it is:

(Although darts don't actually hit where the cheapo red dot sight indicates it's done wonders for the boy's aim)

As the stock motors were pretty crappy on four nimh AA's and I got that lovely electrical burning smell with two IMRs and two dummys I decided to go for Tamiya motors and re-wire with a 2S2P battery tray, this allows me to run them within their specified voltage (2.4-3.0V) with the nimh AAs and slightly overvolt them with 1S2P IMRs using dummys (3.7V).  The parallel tray allowing more current output for the motors to spin up faster than is possible with serial.

I modded the tray using individual contacts, replacing the crappy thin high resistance negative terminal coil springs with leaf springs to reduce the resistance (the enemy of performance).  There's also the added bonus that resistances in parallel are lower than the same items in serial.  It's rewired using the BSUK kit and the switch is fitted with the rev switch trigger lock maintained.  The FDS video were a great help with this (all other lock removed).  Here's how the tray looks from the outside:

You can kind of see how the negative terminal looks through the mag well here:

To fit the new negative terminals the only cutting I had to do in the tray was some small slits to poke the soldering tabs through.  I had to cut away some of the lower tab as it was interfering with inserting the mag.  I could do with tidying it up but CBA.  I also had to cut away some superflous material to route the negative wire to the contacts.

I've also fitted it with worker flywheels and pusher.  I didn't try it with the standard flywheels to see if they were worth buying for this set-up but they can't hurt, right?

The end result is a blaster that shoots similarly to my own modded EAT with greater rate of fire (spin up is almost instant) and can be left in a young kids toy box and one that shoots pretty hard on IMRs that can be dropped in for special occassions that shoots harder than two IMRs and two dummys in an otherwise stock stryfe.  But most importantly my wife hasn't noticed I souped up my son's toy which was criteria numero uno!

Hopefully this has been interesting to someone.


Great work. I have been wondering how much modding I can do to my kids blasters....

Sounds like you know your stuff and have good attention to detail. Should make for some good builds. Look forward fo seeing what else you come up with!

thanks! I've got my eye on the zeus for the next project but it's a bit pricey to just tear it apart and not sure I want different ammo types in our battles around the house.  Quite fancy a rapidstrike but I'm not sure you can do full auto justice without going to proper battery packs.  Will definitely pick up a desolator if/when it makes it over here even if it's just a stryfe in drag, it looks awesome.

Rapid strikes run just fine on imr's - even if a battery pack is the purists route Smile. Especially if you wire in the batteries in a similar way to reduce any resistance.

Going to consider how I can do that for my imr powered rapid strike now......

I like the 2s2p battery tray idea. That actually makes a lot of sense and I really like the idea of the build. It's a new idea for me if no one else!

So is the implication of quicker spin up shorter life between recharges? Do you find it makes a difference in terms of how often you charge?

I run my RApidstrike on 3imrs in a wired in Aa tray. It smells burny if used for more than a second or so burst, but hasn't failed yet. I know you shouldn't etc, but it's fun! Performance is also fair on 2imrs.

Maybe I'll take a look at a rapidstrike then, but the battery tray doesn't look as easily modded as the stryfe.

Regarding the batteries they will last longer than serial as the capacities add together in parallel, the drawback is you can't go as high with voltage

Ah, so hence the motors. That makes sense. Got my wires crossed...

Yeah motor selection is a compromise so nimh and imr could work in the same build. I assumed stock motors plus rewire with nimh aa would still suck so needed a motor swap. I assumed tastier motors like rhinos would stretch imrs too far, let alone nimh aas. I could have gone for 3 aas and a dummy in a series tray with tamiya like super gripper but I thought the current output off series aas would slow spin up time, though they would shoot harder once spooled up. That's where the imrs come in to achieve more voltage to max out the motors Very Happy

I'm not terribly savvy when it comes to Nerf electrical stuff. Is the voltage in stock Nerf blasters run in series?


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