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Project Ambition: The Typhon (Modulus + RC + RS)

So, I wanted to write down my plans for my modded primary I'm hoping (time and budget allowing) to put together over the next couple of months.  There isn't a whole lot of original in here, this first build is more about putting together a whole host of mods I've read/watched, think I can do, and think I can put together into a whole. This first post is just going to very basically sketch out what I want to do, in what order, in the hope that any of you can spot any silly mistakes and suggest solutions or any time/money saving tips! (All about those).

I've decided I'm going to name my builds after TVR cars. Because.

So this first one (The Typhon) is going to be a Modulus with a Roughcut Masterkey integration. Doesn't sound massively original does it? Stick with me. I'm planning on removing the battery cover foregrip of the Modulus, removing the Roughcut handle and trigger mechanism (jamming it to constantly on) and having it slide right in as close as the internal mechanisms will allow to the mag well, shaping the rear of the Roughcut shell to not only fit around the mag well (and mags) but also flaring the cut so that with some additional material it acts as a guide skirt for mags inbound to the well.

I want to upgrade everything for both the blasters and I'd hope to complete in the following stages:
Roughcut Internals:
Cut airspaces in behind ARs to allow top four barrels to fire simultaneously, ( )
Stubby brass barrels,
Spring upgrade (5kg)*,
Trigger mechanism removal,
Permanent slam fire mode.

Modulus Internals:
New flywheel cage (not made my mind up which as yet) driven by Hellcats through a high power loom powered by either 3s or 2s Lipo dependant on performance/event.
Battery alarm.
Whilst I'm at this I may want to go ahead and replace the Modulus’ grip. Any suggestions on what to use gratefully accepted.

Attaching the Modulus battery cover/grip onto the Roughcut grip (not really sized this properly but should allow for a bigger, comfier grip for my sausage fingers),
Rough cut shell cutting,
Guide skirt addition,
My either use a Nerf to Nerf to simply slide the Roughcut right in or else remove all the details from the top of the Roughcut to allow a much more intimate fit shell to shell, if so, may add stryfe battery door to the modulus for easier battery access..  Maybe.

Roughcut internal ‘fluff’:
LED light loom with a difference (which I definitely need help with), I want to place switches across the run of the prime slide allowing three sets of LEDs to activate so that they are all lit when primed and all off when not.

Modulus internal ‘fluff’:
LED light loom with Voltmeter and ammo counter addition. Yeah.. No real experience of electric engineering, but why not?

Of a similar ilk to Dracs Oblivion rifle, I like white blasters white accents of grey, black, and/or orange combinations (I love the white/orange Roughcut, if the stupid modulus didn't have that stupid green I’d leave them both alone).

*I know this is a bad idea.. That it is very likely to strip the gears, but I impetously bought the springs before talking to everyone here and fancy giving it a go.

I realise this is a massive commitment in time and money and don't believe I'm going to have it done this year, but I'm starting this week and I'd like to see everyone’s thoughts and opinions (and laughter, scoffing, and criticism Very Happy). I plan to edit this post to put in links to where I've garnered ideas for each of the individual mod techniques so you can see clearly what I'm trying to do and stick updates in the WIP forum, but just wanted to write it down to make it clear for me if no one else Smile

EDIT: Roughcut - added ref.

Looking forward go seeing things develop, who doesn't like a masterkey. 😊
Good luck with the build.


Regarding the roughcut, I wouldn't bother tampering with the AR. If you make it so the top two rows fire at once, the bottom two won't fire at all, and the performance on the top ones will drop anyway.

Did you get the blasterparts springs for the roughcut?

Gavinfuzzy does a replacement roughcut grip iirc

I like the led idea in the roughcut


I got the idea for the the top 4 firing at once from this guide...
...(the 2x4 to 4x2 bit) this seems to work without touching the AR but by affecting the barrels the ARs are affecting by creating links between the barrels.

I'm resigned to loss of performance from these top 4 when they are all loaded but figure they will provide a nice 'Spread' (see Bill Burr stand up for a hilarious description of the benefits of 'Spread') and hope to counteract the loss via the rebarreling and spring upgrade.. Honestly, I'm also pretty much resigned to the loss of a roughcut during this also. Eggs, omelettes..

EDIT: After re-reading the mod guide I think the cuts are behind the AR.. I'll try and properly document it when I get to it.

You'll probably have a short life expectancy on the roughcut if you upgrade the spring

Blastersmiths has springs and replacement gears for the roughcut but even then the fps on two darts is just enough so I don't think it will perform very well shooting more darts. Brassing the barrels may help this though. Found that I never really used the roughcut much in masterkey config. A sledgefire masterkey would be pretty cool?

I actually hate the looks of the sledgefire but after watching the Make.Test.Battle lot modding them I've come to appreciate their abilities. Maybe one for the future. Maybe one of those cycloneshots with the printed elite turret firing 3? Probably have to mount it upside down, but it could look pretty cool and do the job probably better than the RC.

For this build though I think the RC fits what I want and that first shot of four should allow a high certainty of kill at closer quarters, reaction/no aiming. It'd be nice breaching a room or catching a dodgy zombie.. Yeah. Sticking with that for now.

Should have said, I got the springs from Amazon/BlasterWorks. It was before I read up as much as I have. If I had the choice again today I would go with BSUK if they were available. I like their ethos.

Minky wrote:
If I had the choice again today I would go with BSUK if they were available. I like their ethos.

Huh. Thanks. Smile

We no longer offer Rough Cut gears because while the ones we got working were tougher than a brick privvy, having them transferable between blasters proved a problem. A combination of 3D printing and Hasbro's manufacturing with neither being terribly repeatable meant you needed to pretty much print every set of gears bespoke per blaster. That usually meant dozens of iterations with changes as small as 0.025mm per blaster. It was a faff and not one I'd care to repeat. Our Sidestrike spring will indeed function as a Rough Cut spring if you're wanting to get some. We did find some super Rough Cuts that didn't break but I don't recall the batch numbers and they certainly weren't the white ones - they were all old blue stock!

The lighting loom on the RC is an interesting idea. I'm trying to work out how best to do that. Seating micro switches is one option but I'm wondering if there's a less faffy way of doing it. I shall have a think. I've not been inside a Rough Cut for a while so it'll be an interesting project. I'll let you know if I think of anything.

I'm working on 180 motor covers for the Modulus, just as soon as OldNoob sends me mine back with the necessary holes in it.

Plenty of space in them for stuff like ammo counters though have fun with that, getting the sensors to work can be a bit tricky. Rather than scratch building one, go take a look at Ammo Counter for their thing.

From a moderator point of view, feel free to use this thread as a log. Just be sure not to double post, remember to edit your post or copy the old post into a new one, delete the old one if you feel the need to bump it for whatever reason.

I'm in the process of using a lanard triple shot as a masterkey for a project. I say in the process theres bits all over the garage but if i was doing it again id seriously look at the cycloneshock spam cannon.  I use one as a side arm and they're awesome. Another option maybe a triad or messenger with the smart AR removed??

But hey its your gig, roughcut will stil be cool i reckon.

Skip to the 30/03/17 for latest installment.

Day 1: Took off all bar one of the Roughcut's shell screws.
Day 2: Bought non-bent screwdriver,  got grease on it. Used adjustable wrench and screwdriver to free the apparently spot welded screw.  Opened up Roughcut,. Marvelled at it's complexity.
Day 3: Ordered virtually every cutting and adhesive recommended on here.  Collected Modulus (£24 thank you ebay). Posed the guns to see how I want them to come together.

Early days on Project Ambition

If you look at the pics you'll see how they fit.. The Tac rails fit perfectly with there being enough space to keep the upper part of the trigger guard which I wasn't expecting.  The front grips match pretty perfect as well..  Honestly they fit together almost too well..  Like I planned it or something mwahahahaha.

Day 4: Tools arrived from Amazon,  lost my modding V plates..

.. And it works. Boom. 4 shot broadside with the opening shot that still travels the length of my house (plugged the barrel holes whilst I was at it)  Very Happy Very, very, Very happy!
EDIT: Said I'd documented how this works. The smart ARs work by channeling the pressured air into the barrels, if there's a dart present, or on through the convoluted air channels to the next one. The mod is cutting through the air channels allowing the air to come up on the top two rows at once meaning that if there are darts present they all fire at 50% force than usual but as the ARs are all still in place the gun will still run through the rest of the rows as per usual.

Day 5: High on power from the previous evenings success I took apart the RC again and then the mechanisms to create a home made auto trigger. It is very tricky. I bought the Laser Gnomes part..  I'm disappointed but I'm trying to give myself a break. The 3D part is perfect for the job and I haven't got the materials to fashion anything other than a bodge job.. So.. Cop out.

Day 6: Started to investigate how to attach the Modulus grip to the RC. Made a couple cuts to the RC grip that allows it to sit within the Modulus grip,  one idea being that the RC grip would still do it's job while the Modulus grip attaches to it. At the moment it's a little too proud of the blaster and there is a gap fore and aft that would need covering somehow so I'm going to try and take it much flushed to the blaster though that will mean skinnying the RC grip much tighter and altering the thickness of the top of the Modulus grip.

Day 7: Put the RC grip on a diet but realised the original grip was deliberately angled back which doesn't work for the Modulus grip, so made a couple of cuts to the 'lips' at the top of the mod grip allowing it to sit flush and the top edge to run nicely along a straight edge in the design of the RC shell. I'm going to look at bolting the mod grip through the RC prime slides attachment points. Not sure how well this will work, may have to use the carcass of the RC grip as spacing within the mod grip to prevent lateral movement. We'll see.

Day 8: Completed cuts to pistol grip and sanded down.  Love the shape of this thing minus grip. See pic below.

Project Ambition: Day 8

Day 9: Further skeletonised and flattened previous RC grip,  now I should be able to mount it in the bottom of the Modulus grip. Got the Laser Gnomes part (they sent 2, which was nice) fitted it, realised that in my bodging about I'd messed up the priming mech and the catches were 5mm from engaging. Very annoying. Eventually took the springs out and tested the mech with the pressure off (for anyone else with a problem with the prime mech I can heartily recommend this as an easy way to find out what the issue is. Made it so much easier) until I found the issue, springs back in,  everything together..  Realised I'd made a horrible mistake..  See I'd decided to get rid of the fire one side at a time feature, hadn't measured, cut.  Now one spring post isn't hooking onto the trigger mech.  DOH! Going to attempt a repair by putting the original bit back on and Epoxying some of the trigger into it to attempt to reinforce it but want to set up some other Epoxy jobs to do at the same time otherwise I'll by another RC and replace the prime mech. Onwards and upwards.

Day 10: Trying to set up a load of devconing at the same time so I have the grip ready to put together,  I've snipped out the batt tray on the Modulus ready for reversing and putting back in,  I need to break down the RC (again to clean then repair the trigger mech.  Joy.

Day 11: Got cool stuff from Bsuk. Cut out holes for the Hellcats and cut down the Rapidstrike motor cover and its currently friction fit to the shell.  Cut down the Stryfe battery tray extenders and took off the screw ports.. Realised that although I'd planned where I was putting the trays and the motor covers separately I hadn't done so in conjunction so my preferred sites for the trays overlap the motor covers.. Doh. More thinking to do..

Last few weeks:
Situated Stryfe Battery extender trays, one with the night fat Voltmeter the other with a Stryfe battery door kindly donated by Dazzle (cheers mate!),
LiPos arrived and the 3s fits snug in that under barrel area,  no worries.
Snikkas cage arrived,  fits perfect and the holes I'd put in the side allow for the Hellcats,
Got tired of looking at the stupid barrel support,  with it's stupid useless flip up sight,  and in a fit of sherry chopped it off. I think it now has a better profile and less barrel drag but I'm going to have to fix it in some other way to avoid it falling out.
Chopped an RS stock to use for the build maybe,  but if so I need to get around the width differences between the shells.

Next challenge is Stryfe pistol grip integration, I need to decide whether I do a chop on both and align Stryfe internals to the Modulus internals,  or just use the shell of the Stryfe and and fit in the base plate of the Modulus mechanisms.

Coming together..  Coming together Big.

08/01/17 - last few weeks.
Obviously with Xmas in the way didn't get quite as much done as I would have hoped however still made some good progress.
After failing to repair the RC's original trigger mech I got another for spares and carefully filed the catch so that both sides fire at once and added 6KG blaster part's springs in.  I figure if the gears get wrecked I have another set to replace.

I wired up the Hellcats in the DRS cage and in an unusual move wired the flyback Diode directly off the motor terminals following FDS/ON's cage set up video to ensure my motor polaritys were correct.
Tested on 6V and although the motors span up the solder points on the motor terminals were very hot.
I'd wired the diode in the wrong way being fooled by the colour of the paper tags on the ends of the diode rather than checking how diodes are actually marked to show orientation.
Desoldered those two points (wrecking my first soldering job that I had been proud of) resoldered and tested. Works.
Soldered on a Xt60 to make it modular then wired up rest of Mosfet circuit using the stock rev switch. Work! (whoop!)
It was then my inexperience and how things are ever changing as they are thought up and thought out came to throw a spanner in the works..
Due to my inexperience I'd firstly messed up the Diode orientation which consequently meant that I was missing heatshrink off two of the motor terminals. Secondly by placing the diode on the motor side of the connector it wouldn't always be protecting the Mosfet loom (potentially I could swap in a fwc without a diode and Fry my mosfet). Thirdly I had bought a load of Xt60s after getting them mixed up with Dean's connectors and tried to plough on.
Since ON's/FDS's video has come out 'best practice' has moved on as real life testing and new techniques have come in.  Best practice now is to use a (forgive me if I get this wrong) a bridge join across the motor terminals (one piece of wire connecting to the two motor terminals another splicing on to go to the rest of the loom) and to orientate the motors the opposite direction and have the positive side forward.  The bridge join spreads any pulling stress across two terminals rather than one.
.. So after a bit of umming and ahhhhing and Franksie kicking me up the backside I desoldered everything and sorted all of the above,  only this time I had multicore leaded solder and a bit of practice behind me so it was much, much quicker.
I've kept the negative forwards orientation of the motors as I can't easily remove the flywheels though but with this the main arteries and veins of the blaster are in place and working and I've left JSTs on the motor circuit and pre Mosfet for LED/Laser/Voltmeter looms.

Filed, Sanded, Squadron Puttied, then Sanded the 3D printed parts until they were as smooth as a baby's bum added a hole for a killswitch I'd decided to add into the right side Stryfe Batt tray extender, used plasticard to fill the side of the sides of the 180 cover,  then Devconed in all the 3D parts. Even with the stuff obviously on the turn it's made them rock solid on the shell (I've got another pack in the fridge this time).

With the parts secured I laid the main power lines from the bottom front of the blaster to the back top. There will be a JST here to bridge the shells in the future but for the time being I have just laid them out so that I can start wiring in the various circuits from front to back (and keep adding the appropriate heat shrink) it's at this point I think I have made a bit of a mistake and added a second Mosfet with it's gate running off the killswitch to control the LEDs.. I remember having a really good reason for this.. But I can't for the life of me remember what and it's been very obvious in testing how much resistance the fet is adding to the loom circuit as the Voltmeter hasn't been activating (but if I test from the opposite end of the circuit,  by passing the fet it does) so I can foresee cutting this component out in the future (it works though,  dual Mosfet build! Yay me!).  So far I've wired two running lights into the well that the barrel is sunk,  the Voltmeter,  the laser but I need to complete this with an appropriate switch on the trigger throw so that it activates on trigger depression (last night I managed to wire it to the jam door switch in a fit of fatigue).  It's getting very..  Wires. I''ve reversed the fit of the stock conduit bracket across the magwell to allow it to guide more wire and will likely add some plasticard to this part to stop wires popping out when you open the jam door.

So far there's two parts of the build I've put on the back burner,  the Stryfe grip transplant and the rebarreling of the RC. The reasons for this are,  with a spare set of RC I can do the rebarreling on the other set then trade it in at any time, and with the Stryfe transplant..  This build is taking an age 2.5 months so far and the Stryfe grip transplant is like to need so very precise cutting and sanding either of the ways I imagine doing it..  And I want to play with this damn thing Smile so I'm going to revisit this prepainting once I have it it working in my hands.

Second wire up of FWC.  Note Diode position still on FWC side of connector (wrong IMO now) and the rubber spray where I'd tried to LiquidTape my resoldered diode connections. Mess.

First Mosfet.  Note I'd left the pins long.  Although this made it easier to solder it makes it a big component to place. I snipped them short on the next one.  Still happy with it though.

First Mosfet circuit and motor polarity test (I'd forgotten to do it earlier!). Success! Note stock rev switch that due to being fed by the killswitch has two blue wires. FWC still wearing second wiring attempt. Test Stryfe bottom left Smile

FWC rewire. Note all shrunk up happy.  I'd wired it in situ..  Meaning I then had to cut the hole bigger to bring it out (of course if I'd listened to Franksie originally it would have been big enough to start with!).  Clean.

Loom rewire post FWC rewire. Note Dean's connectors for modular FWC.  Diode attached on female (battery/Mosfet) side. Addition of 2nd Mosfet for LEDs bottom left. Female JST connectors on motor circuit female Dean's (for rev LED circuit) and male XT60 (for main power to rest of circuits).

Rewired Voltmeter. Only included to show what even a noob can do with sufficient practice (I'd accidentally snapped them off) in full honesty I'd managed to bring the circuit board out of the mount.

Fitted killswitch and testing Voltmeter. Note nice, smooth, Devconed 3D parts and success.

Laying the mainlines of the low power circuit. Note by snaking it through the blaster it's within easy reach of all the little circuits that need to tap in.

Low power Mosfet circuit test-Latest pic. Note front LED running lights, Laser emitter diode top left.

So as you may know I've been splitting my time between a couple of projects so The Typhon has been just a little neglected but I have been chipping away and had a bit of time recently Soooo... Update!

Tested on 12v alkalines, happily all LED circuits work.
With seating the barrel further back into the blaster there's no chance I'm going to need the barrel attachment so I swapped it out for an HF muzzle.
It was time to break out the Devcon and get fixing.  I chopped off the inner strut of the handle off the left hand side shell and Devconed the right hand side handle to the right hand shell strut so that I can screw the left side to it and the entire handle becomes part of the right hand shell. This is to help when I put LEDs into the back of the handle (just keeps the wiring for both halves of the handle in the right hand side shell and makes putting the shell back together easier).
I then Devconed both sides of the RS stock to the back of the Modulus. First the side with no bits sticking out from inside so that the two pieces could lie perfect against each other then the next night I screwed together the Modulus and the RS stock pieces together with Devcon applied so that the other side of the RS stock stuck perfect once again.
I've been looking at the placement of the microswitches for the stuff I need to happen in the RC and started supergluing bits in to see how I can set everything.
I looked at the blaster this morning and tried to think of what I would mount to the front rail of the blaster.. The sight will be on the top rail on the handle, the torch will be on the side.. What's the point of it? It just makes it vertically fat (technical term) so after talking it out with folks on Discord I 'manned up and cut'. Rather than taking it totally flat top I left a faux iron sight like stub to put a sling mount on (yes. Yes I am stealing that from Nscrupulous lol).

Last night I plugged in the in Lipo.  No fire this time just roaring 180s beaming LEDs, and darts flung like the laser projecting the red dot. Awesome...  Not perfect though. Some darts weren't reaching the concave flywheels of the DRS cage and at one point a dart lodged in the barrel and the next one rammed into the back of it and fired the entire guide barrel that comes with the DRS cage straight out the faux barrel. Going to look at shortening and fixing that barrel to one half of the fwc, increasing the travel of the pusher arm, and perhaps checking the faux barrel is perfectly seated.  Still very, very happy.

12v alkaline testing. Note putting the test Stryfe and pack in series to get the voltage and the magwell LED circuit working (off both the jam door and mag switches).

HF/Modulus muzzle swap. Note it was easy.

Devcon time. Note the RS shell parts that support the stock actually line up pretty nicely on the vertical but the RS..  Well baby got back and they stick out on the horizontal I think I should be able to sculpt the top nicely but I have an alternative idea for the horizontal joins. Stay tuned to find out.

Roughcut microswitches.. Tight fit but I think I can make it work.

Cut down top rail gives a nicer top line to the blaster. Note that the stub keeps the screw port and allows a point to mount a sling attachment point and nice big whole to build across.


Added MicroJST to the laser in the faux barrel so that I can leave it in there.
Fitted a 2nd LASERED into the little number on the bottom lip of the blaster adding into to same circuit as the first (activated by trigger depression).
Fitted a big ol red LED into the RS stock with a JST allowing me to take out the actual stock. ON put me onto this guide from Coop which makes taking apart the RS stock easy ( )
Fitted a big ol red LED into the fore section of the blaster above the newly placed laser.
Fitted a big ol red LED to the FWC linked it into the motor circuit with the rest (so that they light on rev).
Mirror wired the left hand shell with the running lights and necessary splice for external LEDs.  Despite being able to identify the the anode and cathode on LEDs without the length of the terminals still managed to wire both of the ones on the LHS the wrong way. 'Fixed' that.
Made holes in the carry handle halves and then fitted two LEDs and tested. These are going to be prime indicators for the Roughcut as it's muzzle will be out of sight.
Although I didn't do a full flat top as ON was encouraging me to do but took inspiration from his technique and tackled the gap left by the 'flat topping'-lite I did by devconing on plasticard to the inside of each shell, bridging the gaps, then a further couple of slats on to the LHS to cover the gap completely. (ON' s flat tops have bolts through the top piece into the pieces attached to the shell allowing him to do away with the tac rail screw ports altogether..  But I thought the Modulus would look a little weird with it's stepped down fore section so wimped out of a 'proper job'.)

The magpie nest. Note the Micro JST on the laser (out of sight) at the top and the new LASERED and big LED bottom left of shot.. Also started 'tidying' the wiring with hot glue.

Rear mounted big ol red LED. It's take the place of the little nub that's normally there.

FWC/engine bay LED. Note secured by carefully placed hot glue and has all the plugs to keep it modular and is also a miniature sun.

Bottom mounted LASERED. Note its actually a nice little fit there,  I had to file it in a little more.. Now I've over done it so will space with E tape.

LHS wiring 'fix'... It's my blaster.. I can do what I want to... STOP JUDGING ME! (sob)

Carry handle prime Indicators. Note as you'll remember I'd already cut one side off the LHS shell. This was mainly so I could place and wire them both in the RHS shell loom. I'm going to have to add some dispersal material so these don't burn out my retinas.

Bridging the gap. Note I've literally just taken these photos and the right side is slightly raised.  I'm hoping that I can file off the excess Devcon and that will allow it to sit a little more flush.


Tech day was drawing near and the week before I really went for it and I took a day off work to make a lbig push. I'd promised myself that I'd have something to show, if not finished I wanted the main structure of the blaster finished. So...

I cut and filed attachment points from RCs and fixed them under the tac rails with Devcon, and fed them through the shell. This slightly more rubbery, orange plastic is a git to work with.
Decided I didn't enjoy the look of the jam door and the detail that isn't really detail on grey so cut and filed it out. I'm happy with the result.
I took the leap and Devconed the RC masterkey onto the Modulus shell. I then drilled them and bolted it on.
With the RC in place I went about fixing the LEDs, magnets, and Reed switches into position. The prime indicators replacing the original RC's and on the back of the carry handle working via magnets fixed in the end of the plunger rods with Reed switches tucked into a small cavity above the trigger catches. The other LEDs on the side on the RC working via 3 other Reed switches and magnets covered in shrink  and superglue onto the prime rack. I was rushing and so this was all pretty much done with superglue and hot glue to keep things temporary so I could adjust through testing and come back and do it properly. I definitely think this was a good choice when dealing with Reed switches and magnets because positioning every thing just right is key for effect. To position the Reed switches correctly over the prime rack (and thus over the poles of the magnets) I linked them all together via heat shrink (they're all part of separate circuits). I then bridged the shells again with JST connectors. Wiring was complexish by my standards and it was very satisfying when it all pretty much worked as planned in testing (though the LHS prime indicator circuit didn't work on the day!)
Also Devconed some plasticard into the jam port to make the reversed wire guide there into an almost sealed conduit.

Masterkey Join. Note: I now think I should have reinforced/used something else as shell the area I have used the reversed battery tray, due to ON's advice and the fact the bendier plastic of the tray bows under the force of the bolts.

Little Reed and Neo Magnets test pack. Note:the Reed switches didn't work with some cheap magnets I had in plentiful supply and this little circuit was very helpful in working out positions of magnets/sensors.

Reed circuit testing. Note: Glowy though some of it didn't work perfick at the tech day. Need to re look at Reed vs magnet positions and properly fix and protect the switches. Also note I had to take out some chunks of the RC internals to fit the LEDs where I did.

Shell work. Note pretty proud of the top rail of this. I think it looks really clean.

Being made famous by BigAls video. I wish had a battery in it at that stage, and check out the cool BSUK blaster base. There's one with up lit LEDs. V. Cool.

Probably too late for this to be practical in this build, but you could use an arduino as your "blaster computer", which, with some small controls and an oled screen (to give you a readout of your information) could let you:

1) drive your LEDs and even do sequenced things with them for added coolness factor
2) Display voltage levels on the oled screen
3) shot counter by use of an ir beam to count shots
4) if you're really ambitious, use ir photosensors and leds to detect empty mag or stalled follower (it'd be the same event:  dart not in breech)
5) use a second ir photosensor setup to let the board do a rough chronograph calculation of each shot.

This could all be controlled with some slick but not too hard to work out programming. And since this is semi auto and you're not using the board to control flywheels, means it's purely secondary and screwing it all up won't trash your blaster in terms of it being a functional Nerf blaster.

By the way, your integration of the RS stock is a very cool idea and with good blending and painting will look really slick. This is going to be very cool if all your plans work out.

Cheers matey!

On the blaster mainframe, it's definitely something I'm considering for future projects though when I set off on the Project Ambition journey I didn't know enough about them to even spec what I could do with something like that. Now I know, I know that it's a skillset I want to learn and I'll work up to it, this (my first mod) was more about learning how to put together circuits and the physical skills for doing so soundly (hence the 2nd 'Mosfet with no purpose' acting as a kill for the the LEDs Smile ), growing the balls to cut up shells and play with shapes, with a tiny bit of springer work thrown in.  That's what I love about this hobby, all the aspects you can immerse yourself in should you want.

I like the side profile of the RS stock to Modulus but the RS's fat ass has made me come up with an alternative way of hiding the join. Top lines of the modulus will continue into the hood of the RS cheek rest and I'll use the protruding bits of the side as mounts for more motor circuit LEDs and then cover that area with a white Perspex plate each side. Lazy, definitely, but blending it whilst keeping it's lines would be a pain and the led glow from under the plates should look pretty cool I think.  I've also got to do a bit of re routing of wires in that area as the cheapo JST wire is getting caught in between the Modulus and closing RS stock and chewed up... Although the end is in sight I there's still a fair bit of work to put it to bed... And that's before paint..

Minky wrote:
...there's still a fair bit of work to put it to bed...

Daaamnmn, you've been busy! Progress looking good. Better pull finger on my build... ;0)

I'd promised myself I'd have something to show everybody for Tech day. I was wiring the RC til 2am that morning!  Rolled up and realised I hadn't tested the circuits with the shell closed but luckily I'd taken my test pack with me and it was all sound so I could stick a LiPo in it Smile

I'm going to keep chipping at it but need to break the back of the work on my modswap blaster now... And I'm feeling particularly guilty about the lack of work on the daughter's FF, though all the performance stuff is done on that so it's ready to war... So y'know.. 1st Nerf World Problems.

Minky wrote:
pretty proud of the top rail of this.

Hey! Just noticed the sling attachment is an entirely new and improved thing (never seen a Modulus up close before). Tres clean!

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