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Project Spark: PIIIKAAACHUUUUU! (1600M)

So..  I realise that 'Project Ambition' is not yet complete however one of the main points of that was to give me the skills to safely make a blaster for my daughter and although it still has a fair amount to go,  I am happy that I know what I need to know to make the lil one a badass blaster.  With the exception of pointing her towards a flywheel(masterrace) blaster she had complete control over the concept.
So the 1600M (still following my TVR naming strategy) will be a Fearless Fire with a custom cage,  Rhinos,  Mosfet loom, on 2s Graphene. It will sport a 'Pikachu' colour scheme and will have a host of LEDs and EL wire circuits on the motor circuit meaning they will activate on Rev (Pikachu charging up).

First weekend:
Got everything required for Xmas (can't tell you how happy she was to get a Mosfet) and since then we've just played with it at stock, but began yesterday.
Little one enjoyed unscrewing and snipping out all the parts. The two original switches (Rev and jam door lock)  will be going back.
I must admit,  I hadn't researched this build to the degree I have The Typhon so although Franksie had given me a head's up it was tight I hadn't really appreciated it until I started to see what space there was to play in the motor/fwc compartment.
Straightaway I cut a hole into the 'eaves' of the shell over the drum/turret.. The standard wire conduit couldn't take a single 16awg wire let alone two so I knew this would be necessary.
Placed Rhinos into and wired up fwc carefully considering where the wires were going and where and what angle the Dean's connector would have to be.  
Wired the Dean's on (I decided on the internals spec an age ago and it's only since that I've come to think it may be overspecced for what I want,  so want to be able to swap back stock fwc if required.)
Tested circuit and motor polarity. The Mrs and clone 1 merrily whipped darts into daddy's belly. A hilarious success.
Carefully placed the fwc into the front compartment..  It's very tight even with all the consideration and careful positioning of solder joins.
Put the other shell back on and it requires squeezing to get back together but again,  tested under 'squeezed'  conditions and the flywheels are happily spinning up and down no worries.
Next weekend it will be the remainder of the motor loom and probably pre soldering up some LED/resistor pairs..  I think the LED side of this project is going to be more challenging than Typhon despite all the circuits I'm putting on that simply due to space.

Newly wired DRS fwc.  Note: the use of heat shrink to tidy the wires (thanks Boff and ON) and the careful positioning of the solder joints onto the Dean's to ensure the plug is facing the right way without straining anything.

Fwc fitted post 'let's shoot daddy's belly' polarity test.

Shell halves 'together' Dean's to Dean's under 'eaves'  of shell. These shouldn't rub on any darts as this is the post firing side of the drum/turret.


Nice work, will be following with intrest.
Ive not got much further than stipping mine out and creating space for the lipo in the stock tray area , which has been a bit of a pain.
Im thinking of stepping down from 3s to 2s if I need to tame it down rather than swap the cages back.

What battery are you going with ?

I keep looking at my fearless fires, thinking I should do something interesting to them! This looks very compelling!

The LiPo I have for it is this one... ( )

.. Which you may be able to tell,  fits the area where I've taken the tray out perfectly but is too wide to actually get in and out through the battery cover frame. This being the case I'll either have to file out some of the lip to allow access or split the shells each time to place it.

The other thing with this Lipo is the leads are pretty long...

.. So either I'm going to have to shorten this leads,  see if I can get away with the connector in the gubbins* of the blaster,  or wrangle it somehow.  I don't want to,  but I'm thinking I'm going to have to shorten the leads.

*Technical Term -  see utter bollocks.

EDIT: now with batt link.

They make that pack with short leads!
Shortening isn't hard, just do one at a time and use plenty of heatshrink. Video on my channel if you want to see it done.

It was a Black Friday deal I grabbed and didn't really know what I was grabbing apart from the output, I think.  I've watched your video and you can trust I'm going to have it playing alongside me as I do it!

Daddy and daughter modding session 2:

-before I go further,  I think I've identified two mistakes I have made so far. They're covered further down so please make sure you read them rather than using my photos as a guide as I think there's an easier way-

Had to have a real think about how I was going to build the loom  and spent quite a lot of time looking at Northwind's excellent review post and internals pic ( ). I also laid and relaid wire through the frame checking what fitted where..  This was pretty boring for the lil un who I had read her school book to me as I thought it through.
When fitting the drum back in I wasn't happy with how far the connectors were sticking out.  They would definitely rub on any darts, if present,  in the drum.
So after reviewing where I was and what I wanted to do I Cracked on! Flying into action!... And began going at various parts with Micro Files. I love these tools. I widened part of the conduit above the drum so that it would happily take the 22awg wire I was going to thread through. Widened the gap into the motor bay so the connectors can sit flusher with the 'ceiling' of the drum cover.
Dremel time! I hardly use this tool after listening closely to the BritNerf 'elders' and much prefer saws and files for virtually everything,  but one thing it can be very useful for is cutting out shell webbing in the most efficient manner and in the FF this allows you to make and use much more accessible space.  I also cut into the drum 'bay' as tight up against the ceiling as possible.
So now I had the wire runs I needed to start the main motor loom so starting with the Mosfet out I wired in the Drain and Source,  then marking the positive and the Drain (with E tape) (thanks Boff) i took the Mosfet out again and spliced the Flyback Diode in along with a negative low power loom connection and added the Gate feed.   The fact I had to get both of these on the Drain (Diode to protect the Mosfet,  low power join to make the LEDs glow on reving of the motors) made a tangle of joins in a very tight space. Fortunately when I fitted it back,  it fit without interfering with the pusher mech.
I wanted to get the Dean's connector in and hook up the loom to the motors and test but ran out of time.

Before we go on to the pics...
Mistakes I've made so far:
1) Lead length on modular FWC.  Initially I had an idea whereby I was going to friction fit the male Dean's into a bespoke hole in the wall into the drum bay. This didn't work out as I didn't have enough lead to position the connector without the FWC completely blocking my access to it (duh).   If I'd just left another 2cm on the connector would have been clear of that wall and able to be placed flush on the 'ceiling'.  If you're not doing a modular fwc,  I'm envious.  You don't have to carve out anywhere near what I did just a couple of holes in the appropriate places fore and aft of the drum bay and you're laughing.
2) Mosfet position. Seems a nice place I picked.. But to place the diode virtually on top of it whilst routing all the wires through that space was a pain I could have easily avoided if,  after I'd Dremelled access into the area under the pusher slide,  I'd Dremelled out the small bit of support web out in there and placed the Mosfet there,  under the pusher.  Would have given me space in the compartment above (where my fet is now) to easily place my diode and make any splices you want without being cramped.

Working out how where things were going to fit. Note the nice Mosfet shaped space in the compartment to the right? That's where it should have gone IMO now.

The drum bay and connector how it was after last week.  I've filed out more of an angle for the connector to lay flush against the top now. Could have been much easier with a little more lead!

Starting to wire in the Mosfet. Note I've cut holes through the compartment to the left but kept the top (the pusher slide) intact.

Positioning Flyback Diode. Note that I'd left this til this stage. I should have thought more about it earlier as although it's a small component the effect of the solder in the wires makes them much less flexible having a greater impact than you think in making things awkward.

Mosfet back out, wiring up diode and low power loom negative.

...and all shrunk up,  Gate wired,  and installed. Note how with the awkwardness of the joins and just how busy that area is now how little space is left. Should of spread into the next compartment down to give myself breathing space. Still. Job done.

Let me know if you think I've made any other mistakes.  I've not really looked hard however I've not seen any mod guides out there for these so it would be good if we can work out any kinks/make any improvements on this thread.  Constructive criticism very welcome.

Daddy and Daughter modding session 3

In honesty most of today was spent on aesthetic decisions..  Making lighting bolt shapes out of LED constellations.  The Child has also made a somewhat controversial choice in stating that the muzzle has to be Pikachu's mouth which leaves me with two problems.  
One technical: I need to get a Pikachu toy,  behead it, and integrate it's bonce onto the FF in a way that allows it to be removed so the shell can be split.
One ethical: Pikachu will now be puking his lightning bolts over his opposition.

Oh well, I'm not the designer.

Anyway, mid week I got itchy fingers and completed the main circuits on the FF.
Tested... Works. 3rd Mosfet circuit success (one failure).
I wired the Gate circuit through both the stock switches as I'm happy that the jam door electronic lock is serving a purpose.
I wired off two spurs from the gate circuit, for the low power loom fore and aft.
I made a decision here that made me happy with myself, I wired the spurs between the rev trigger switch and the jam door switch.  This means that if you put the jam door up you will be able to activate the LEDs,  for showing off,  And the Voltmeter I'm going to put in the jam door without activating the flywheels by depressing the rev trigger. I'm quite happy with that.

Gate circuit wired.  Note the spurs off the gate feed between the trigger and jam door switches.

Dean's and XT60 on. Happily the Rhinos whispered into life!  Note the nice test pack the FFs battery tray has made me with Dean's and XT60 connectors.

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