Archive for BRIT NERF Home of the British NERF Community
 


       BRIT NERF Forum Index -> Q&A and New members
SirBrass

Recommendation for a xsw pusher motor: honeybadger or rhino?

My xsw kit came from Tacticoolfoam yesterday and I'll begin the install this afternoon with a NIB stryfe. I'll be running this on 2S with 16awg and blade 180s. Anyway my question has nothing to do with the flywheel circuit. I'm going to replace all the wiring in the xsw kit with 16awg as well (if I had 18awg on hand, I'd use it). When CC gets them back in stock, I'm going to use a MTB 130 for the pusher gearbox motor. My only question is which one? Run the rhino on 2s, or use a honeybadger?

FYI, I obtained an extra microswitch to integrate live center cycle control too.

Thoughts?

Edit:

Okay, so a 180 can fits just fine in the gearbox, however, the torque from a rapid on/off/on causes it to back out by about a millimeter and the pinion gear slips off the gear train and the gears stop being driven. Basically, the motor strap is necessary, which means unless a secure method of strapping the 180 to the gearbox is out there, I'm going to be limited to 130s.

Also, the switch xsw included says it's rated for 3A at 250VAC and 5A at 125VAC.

SSGT, ON, based on the above info and what you know of the kit, on an off the cuff guesstimate what would you say its chances of surviving as a cycle control switch are if acting as cycle control for a rhino?
OldNoob

Why 2s? If you were going 3s I would run all Rhino. It will be very slow on a rhino at 2s. The Honeybadger has lousy torque though. I would try both and use which ever works best.
SSGT

What sort of RoF are you after? The XSW box should be a 48:1 reduction so on 2S a Rhino would give you no more than 8dps (more likely 4-6dps - unlike a RS box the motor has to work against a return spring aswell). A Honey Badger on 2S would be no more than 15dps (again, more likely 10-12dps). If you can fit a 180 you have the option of a third FK180SH-3240 - you may need a 180 anyway if you're planning on running live-centre (although you should be able to get away with dead-centre, also a three switch circuit, with 130s).

A Honey Badger should produce more torque than a Rhino (especially a HB on 2S vs a Rhino on 2S - there's only just over 6mN.m in it with a HB on 2S vs a Rhino on 3S). It compensates for the greater speed at a lower voltage with a higher current demand.
OldNoob

I found all the HB's I had were lousy at braking vs a banshee. I couldn't get a single one to brake reliably on live centre. It will matter a lot less in a sector gear arrangement like the XSW compared to a RS.
SSGT

I think the problem is that whilst they do produce more torque than a Rhino it seems like it's still not enough torque to come to a full stop from the higher speed that they operate at. The faster a motor is spinning the more torque it'll require to come to a stop in the same amount of time.
SirBrass

Edit: Found some things out this afternoon. See OP for additions.

The reason for 2s when I asked was battery form factor. I'd have to get another 3S lipo to fit properly and it'd be less capacity, though maybe that won't be a terrible thing as my 1AH Graphene (65C) 3S only lost 0.4V over the entire day powering my triple hellcat RS. Maybe a 950mAh 65C Graphene, since it's dimensions are far more stryfe battery tray friendly. So y'all have convinced me to go 3s for this (and because 3s is much less current demanding than equivalent torque 2s motors b/c P=IV).

I'm NOT chasing dps numbers. I like the idea of greater single shot control with the stryfe full auto principle, and I'm not after doing mag dumps. But I don't want to try and cram multiple FETs along with an arduino into a stryfe. An RS has more space for such toys.

So from what y'all said, honeybadger is out. That's fine by me. For now I'll be running 2S on 2 blade flywheels & the included pusher. I do have a spare blade 180, but the included trigger switch (which I'll use for cycle control & use the 10A microswitch for pusher activation & the omron 21A for flywheels) is stamped as 3A at 250VAC (I'll check as it may be less voltage than that... It's crap) & it may crap out as a live center cycle control. I'm going to acquire another 10A micro to replace it soonest (I'll use non permanent adhesive to secure the stock switch). I'll put in hellcat FW motors & either hellcat or rhino gearbox motor when CC gets them in stock.

This is going to be my go-to flywheel primary. I like the RS shell a lot and it's nice and compact too. The RS is great but the internal design isn't IMO as good as the stryfe. I'm going for practicality for FA which means ease of single dart trigger pulls, but fast burst when I want. Thus the reason for deciding to integrate a cycle control switch.

From what I've heard, in an RS, a rhino pusher is about 9dps on 3s? So with resistance from the return spring in a stryfe auto pusher 8dps? I want fast but controlled bursts without board control. My RS on a 3s hellcat pusher shoots just about right (for the stryfe, I'd prefer just a hair slower, as I'm more of a precision shooter with the stryfe using the stock pusher mechanism), but not quite perfect in pusher speed.

So, the question is rhino or hellcat for the pusher gearbox motor. I like my hellcat pusher in the RS, but like I said above, I would want maybe a hair or two (black, not red if you've heard pipe-fitter slang) slower. I assume here, torque matters more than in the RS due to having to deal with a resistive spring?

       BRIT NERF Forum Index -> Q&A and New members
Page 1 of 1
Create your own free forum | Buy a domain to use with your forum