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RS-1 with added Honeybadger

After a good month of coutless problems from Hydrodip failure to motor confusion I have finally finished my Rapidstrike. I am simply calling it the RS-1 as a continuation from my Demolisher being called DM-1.

So here it is:

What I have done:

All locks and thermistors removed
Full 16AWG rewire
15A Microswitches
MTB Rhino Motors
Worker Flywheels
Running off a 3s 2200mAh 40C lipo

It shoots really hard, I have no idea what the fps is but I am really pleased with the performance.

I am not 100% please with the paint job. I had to change plans after the Hydrodip failed so badly. The lines have come out fairly well, a few bits of bleed. I have learnt a lot through the process and I am confident the next blaster will have a better coat of paint.

I have to give a big shout out to OldNoob for all his advice from Battery Packs through to Paint. If it wasn't for the input of the likes of him I probably would have just stuck some IMRs in this thing.

I am not sure the orange and the red go together, but I wanted the primary colour on the blaster to be red. I wasn't sure if painting the orange bits red would be overkill and I couldn't think of another colour to paint those parts.

***Chrono Readings***

Average: 126
Std Dev: 10
Min: 107
Max: 143
Spread: 36

Still not 100% sure on the accuracy of these readings but happy with the performance.

Can you put a link up for the type of switches you used?

Well done. I think the paint isn't as much of a problem as the prep, it looks like it needed a lot more sanding to remove all the aftermath of the dip!
You should be proud, doing the first RS is a big achievement, they are not easy.

I think what I should have done is sanded down again after the primer had dried. Then primed again. But most sanding was definitely required. I have tried to go for a rugged look to the blaster and sanded off some of the red to reveal the grey primer on edges.

The wiring is certainly more tricky than what I have done before. But it works, so I am happy. I am sure in the future I will find another excuse to do another one.

These are the microswitches I used:;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Phenomenal. Just bought some!

Just as a side note, those switches are a bit large for the full 3 switch centre off wiring loom, they are hard to get in infront of the trigger for the cycle control switch. Fine for rev triggers though.

I haven't used any switches for a cycle control switch. Should I have? Or does that just make it even better if you have that?

You have an MTB "2 switch" wiring loom, where the pusher is just on/off through the main trigger. It works, is reliable but lacks the finesse of centre off. The third switch controls the stop of the pusher, by putting the motor on a closed loop when you let go of the main trigger, retracting it fully every shot and giving perfect cycle control.
Two wire can be changed to three wire centre off. OMN did his like that. Run it for a game or two first, enjoy the awesome, then worry about perfecting it.

Yes I followed the MTB wiring guide.

I thought that would be the case. I will leave it as it is at the moment. In a few months once I've worked through the rest of what I want to to I may give it a bit more attention.

It will be making an appearance at Bristol Blast.

I will lend you a 3 switch to try, then you can see if it's worth it. I do it because that's the method I learnt and can make work! Just getting a working one took me 3months the first time out.

Yeah, I tried that MTB rewire guide, and whilst it works it isn't as refined as having the three switch loom in place. What tends to happen is you 'miss' the first shot on a trigger pull on a fairly regular basis, especially where the pusher has to retract and then cycle out again to push the first dart into the flywheels.

It's fairly straight forward to rewire at a later date to include the pusher control switch.

It will be good to see the difference. I have just watched your video on BSUK RS kit and it does look very good. A lot more precise than what I have got.

I honestly don't understand why the Aussies tried to fix something that ain't broke. The original method can be tricky to get right but it's a damned sight more reliable. I would never recommend the MTB way of doing it.

Boff wrote:
I honestly don't understand why the Aussies tried to fix something that ain't broke. The original method can be tricky to get right but it's a damned sight more reliable. I would never recommend the MTB way of doing it.

Could be because the third switch has been the hardest to get right and a major failure point. The two switch set up definitely puts the RS in the realm of average modder vs the three which requires a degree from hogwarts.

Boff wrote:
The two switch set up definitely puts the RS in the realm of average modder vs the three which requires a degree from hogwarts.

We should devise a modding grade scheme, like karate belts with various dans.

Change a spring in a Retaliator - green belt
Rewire a stryfe/MTB rapidstrike - blue belt
Rewire a rapid strike with a three switch loom - black belt

That winchester slingfire: 65th Dan Black belt.

I have added a fresh lick of paint, still not 100% happy but I am getting there.

The big improvement is the addition of a Honeybadger pusher.

Here is the Rs-1 with a stock pusher dumping 18 darts.

Here is the Rs-1 with a Honeybadger pusher dumping 18 darts.

Sorry for the poor quality on the last video. I will aim to improve that sooner rather than later.

Big thanks to OldNoob for sorting the new motor. It is such a simple install and makes the Rapidstrike insanely Rapid......Hyperwhaaaaat?

That's 18 darts in roughly 4 seconds! Holy Hugh Jackman! I think that is just slightly slower than a honeybadger pusher but then honeybadgers are designed to be rapidstrike pushers. The only thing I don't like is that the barrel is orange with the black tip. Awesome paint job though, I need to try red and blue.
daniel k

*puts glasses on* technically speaking, old chap, its 18 darts in approximately 1.5 seconds, it reaches 4 including rev up time and missed shots, old bean. Jolly good, bobs the uncle.

My bad....I meant Honeybadger pusher.....I have not installed my Hellcats yet! I will amend the post.

Did you incorporate any diodes into the wiring to the pusher?

No I didn't......this blaster stoped working fully this weekend mid game. That could be why.....

Shouldn't need any diodes for the pusher because although the honeybadger is a 2c rated motor it can be overvolted to 3c in a rapidstrike as a pusher motor.

Something else has gone wrong then. Got some awful  footage of  it literally crying at me in a game.
daniel k

Could be that you ran the pusher for too long. Fine in short bursts(1-2.5 mags maybe), not if you went through multiple mags running it constantly.

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