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The 'DareDevil' Rapidpistol...

Because a rapid pistol, built by a blind bloke, needs a suitably blind related nickname, and a cool paintjob...

Months ago, before the house move, my wife foolishly said 'you've not spent much on Nerf recently, why don't you get something?' This also happened to be around the same time as Drac called himself the greatest modder and that his Sanguine was the ultimate Nerf flywheel blaster...

Err, yeah, right...

Well, a rapidpistol has always appealed, having used Justajolts version to empty clips at the end of a Grim Up Nerf event, and while Drac might never see my work from his ivory tower, I'll at least know that if a blind bloke can build something that fires faster and hits harder than his work, then I'd be officially awesome. There was also a certain degree of 'If i can do this, no-one has an excuse'

So, I picked up a rapidstrike, ordered my motors, flywheels and body kit bits from OldNoob, Worker and Blastersmiths UK, and then the other day, Franksie and OldNoob clued me into the artifact cages. A big thanks to Franksie for helping acquire one of those...

The aim - a rapidpistol, cut down, wired and painted by me, with no physical help from others in the community, though i'll certainly be asking people to double check my wiring via photos on discord!

The problems - Other than the eyesight, where seeing 9 of everything will make cutting and soldering hard, my biggest problem is tools - I've mislaid many during the house move, and things like my hacksaw are bust. I've got a new soldering iron, because my old one was my dads from before I was born, and I got a nice new dremel to help with cuts and cleanup work.

*cough* this is how bad my hacksaw is:

The target date - Novembers Grim Up Nerf event

Day 1 progress was to opent he rapidstrike up and gut everything... I followed OldNoob's video, and well, it took a few minutes... But I had everything there in front of me, and I have very little personal restraint, so I grabbed my knakered hacksaw and started cutting.

*trigger warning - blaster abuse*

Ok, so I am not very good at this cutting lark... On Discord, DarkKitten screamed his shock and wasn't even sure how I was hurting a fine piece of Nerf... Luckily, I can see past the mess, and soon had it tidied up.

And after clearing out the ribs of plastic inside, was able to test fit the stock block, and yes, that is a penknife because I can't find my craft knife at the moment:

At this point, I felt I was on a roll, so emboldened by my success, took my hacksaw to the front...

This needs a bit more work, as I'm not convinced that where the BlasterTech video said the cut is where I did cut, and I didn't cut straight, so theres a small gap at the top... But, it's already taking shape!

I intend to document this as I go, to honestly show my mistakes, and to give a blind persons perspective on the complex wiring challenges of a rapidpistol. and one the shell work is done... it'll need a dark red paint job, befitting its Daredevil name...

You are an inspiration to the rest of the community. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Well done so far! I love the look of rapidpistols that keep the top rail on the blaster.

Watching this one, I've got a spare RS shell that needs bits chopped off it.

Incidentally- if you're doing more shell cutting, you might find a razor saw easier to work with, the stiffer blade has some advantages and can be easier to keep on the straight and square.

Was going to suggest a bandsaw but on reflection probably not a good idea with poor eyesight 😕

I have done a lot of shell cuts, never felt the need for a bandsaw. Northwind- going to try a razor saw, that's a great idea.
The Dark Kitten

I'm said it on discord but.... it looks stunning and a great start!
In my opinion there isn't enough "quick draw" spam mods around and the rapidpistol is under used.
Can't wait to see the finished result from what you've told me!

I'm inspired to get started on "The Green Lantern"

Going well so far, keep us posted

New hacksaw has arrived, and with it being a GuN day, I am a bit exicted and can't sleep, so 6:40 start and some modding...

First up, new hacksaw makes a lot better cuts!

But when slotted together with the other piece, I have a slight gap at the top...

Next cut... the front...

But you need to cut away those little wings near the bottom, so it matches the shape of the BSUK front block

Test fit of the front, and I must say, its looking damn good

Slight problem on the other side, the two front cuts are off by a mm or so, and so I need to trim it down to get the motor cover to fit right, and the block to stay where it should be
Also, the barrel attachment isn't sitting right, I have shaveddown the bottom 'lump' on it a bit, but it looks like I need to do a bit more.

Great update. Looks like you have covered or even uncovered the few issues I found but couldn't find mention of anywhere else. All pretty logical stuff though - front attachment piece sticking up, cutting the sides to match the front 3d printed piece.

That's fantastic! Very smooth and sharp ^_^

The gap at the back is normal, you need to re shape the top corners of the stock block. I have vowed not to use it after the last one I did, I prefer the arse end of a raider for ease of fit.
I used a sharp Stanley knife to chop the corners off the block to sort the fit out. The whole top is the wrong shape.
Barrel attachment is also always like that. 2-3mm off the back edge of the lump you have identified sorts it. I bond mine in with Decvon at the bottom with the bolt on the top. I also shim under the side rails to front block join with pmasticard to centre the front block to the barrel. Also a tiny length of faux barrel to link the front to the cage is essential.

Day 3 update... the last of the cuts...

So, I took OldNoob's comments on board, and he is damn right, you need to reshape the back block top corners slightly. I cut mine back a fair amount, and I was a little concerned you'd be able to see a gap between the blue shell and the orange block but its fine.

Heres my cuts, an almost 45 degree cut from the little vertical section to the top horizontal:

Look at Boff's honeycomb interior:

The other big cut job today was the motor cage mount points from the orange shell piece at the front. I screwed up...
It had a nice flat wall so I cut with my hacksaw blade against this to get a really nice flat edge. The trouble was, this wall sites to the left of my existing cut... exactly where the front block goes... Doh!
Some quick dremeling later, and I have the piece ready to glue:

The other jobs I did today was to snip off the old wires and re solder them into the old battery tray, so that I had a way to test things. This was my first soldering with my new iron, and it's a little different from the 30+ year old soldering iron of my dads that I was using.

And the final thing I did this morning was assemble the flywheel cage ready to start soldering. I had a LOT of trouble getting the Hellcats into the old cage, in the end, i had to carefully dremel away the 3 plastic ridges on each curve in the motor slots in order to get the motor to slide in, they are that tight a fit! And we all know the issues with getting worker flywheels on... Franksie had warned me not to use a heatgun as he over melted his, but it was all I had to hand. So i carefully held it high, warmed one flywheel for a few seconds, tried it, warmed it, tried it, warmed it, and it slid on perfectly. Repeated it for the other.

I think i'm going to end up doing a modular cage design, so this cage is the stock one with hellcats and workers, and Franksie has ordered mean artifact cage and artifact flywheels. I can't decide whether to put hellcats or rhinos in that.


Think I need to reprioritise and get to work on mine

I'd managed to forget about two cuts I had to make...

The first, is on the pusher motor cover, in order to fit the tabs of the honey badger. I took off both semi circle covers, and then had to share away plastic so I'd be able to solder the wires:

The other big cut was to remove the outer shell so the 180 hellcats would fit. I was dreading this... I started by drilling holes around the circles inside the shells and snapping the result free, then sawing between these to create a channel. Then it was a case of testbfit, dremel sander it away, test fit, sand, test fit, sand:

You're not hanging about on this!
The Dark Kitten

Nice work BG you really are going at this!
I really am looking forward to seeing this in a war!

Looking really good so far.
I draw round the motor cover, then draw a line 3mm inside, that's my cut line!

Latest chalenge.... I think it was OldManNerf on the discord chat suggested the spectre stock would really suit the cut down look. My first thought was it would foul against the battery tray...

It does, but probably only because I now need to sand the stock block down to make stocks actually fit onto it...

Now that I like 😀

Get the end and stock block from a Raider on there!

Raider stock plus spectre barrel looks best on a rapidpistol.

So, with a few second thoughts creeping into my head regarding the amount of work the cuts and cleaning up of the 3d printed parts are taking, and totally confused by the wiring, given its over 3 videos from OldNoob on a full rapidstrike, I decided to simplify the wiring guide so a blindy like me could understand it.

It took two revisions from my first bad drawing, but over in Discord, there seemed to be agreement that this one looked right:

*** Edit: before I fry myself/the motors tonight, can someone confirm my red positive wire into the trigger is wrong - based on Toruk's wiring, I think that should be into NO not C? ***

With everyone in the chat disappearing for the night, I set about laying the cables out as per my diagram. But as I've proved time and time again, I'm an impulsive idiot, so jumped in and started soldering.

I built the initial circuit that let's you test the flywheels, positioned everything, and pressed the rev switch... success, the flywheels span up with a satisfying hum.

So I tried to feed a dart in, which kinda requires you to have 3 or 4 hands with my bad battery setup, but managed it... the dart went nowhere. Like tbr, my polarity markers appear to be wrong.

It had taken my about an hour to solder it all up, but I knew I was tantalisingly close to having a circuit that worked. One quick (11 mins!) desolder, resolder, test and photo later, and we have a dart fed thru my very ghetto testing:

Awesome outcome after all of the deliberation last night!

Having messaged back and forth with Franksie, poured over the videos and wiring diagram etc I'd come to the conclusion that I had no idea what I was doing!

I was going to leave it until after tonight's discord chat, but the kids went to bed early, and the missus was watching a diy sos repeat, so I snuck off to the workshop to play with electricity.

Either I got better at soldering over night or the gods of lead and tin were smiling on me, because other than a couple mistakes with forgetting heatshrink, and my solder breaking on a pusher motor pin, it went smoothly, well as smoothly as seeing 8 soldering irons, 8 wires, 8 switch pins, 8 rolls of solder can go!

I actually finished all the soldering about 5 minutes into the chat, and it worked first time. Incredible...

Here's the finished loom:

Next job was to tidy things up, solder a deans onto the lipo and battery wires, cut down the trigger - this is important as how much you cut it alters how sensitive it is. Mine only needs a fairly light touch. One thing to be aware of, there's a tiny tab on the top of the rev trigger piece. You'll need to rove this otherwise the firing trigger won't engage properly when both are depressed.

All internal bits assembled:

Then it was a case of closing it up and test fitting the front block again:

The last job for the moment is to Devcon the bits on. I'm a bit fingers crossed on this one, my Devcon didn't mix right:

Update - its held, but slipped slightly overnight. Word of warning, the battery tray piece has VERY square edges, and doesn't fit perfectly true to the blaster, so you'll want to soften those once its on

Firing vid to come at the weekend.

A big thanks to Franksie, who has been my wingman on this project in many ways. Hes been there to bounce ideas and questions off and to keep me doing it
Massive thanks to Boff, without him the kit wouldn't exist. The new orange is cool.
Huge thanks to OldNoob, for patiently answering my wiring questions, and for his wiring vids.
Big thanks to BlasterTECH for their video which helped with the cuts

So the challenge is part complete... a blind bloke has built a rapidpistol! The next job is a paint job...

And if I can successfully do such a complex mod, what can you do?

Update: I've had few additional issues-
1) cage or flywheel alignment, darts don't always feed in neatly, and get chewed to pieces when they don't. It looks kind like to pusher (worker extended one) isn't putting them in far enough, or the gap is too small, or the clip is too high
2) battery doesn't fit - I got zippypy compact 850mah 35c 3s, the big brother of Bertha's 2s. It doesn't fit. I've removed some excess plastic from the maxwell side, and some from inside the battery tray cover, but it's a tight fit. Don't trust hobby kings dimensions.
3) my barrel extension is still buggered. It's not to do with the nub underneath, it's to do with the screw at the top, as this tightens, it lifts it up. I'm going to dump the screw and Devcon it in
4) remember you need a short piece of barrel to fit between the pieces, no idea how much yet, will update it later.
5) I can't single shot. I think this is down to my cycle control switch lever not engaging quite right. OldNoob has a change for this that I'm going to try
6) hellcats get VERY hot if you jam the blaster... one chewed up dart spat it's tip into the gap between the cage and flywheel (yeah, that 1 mm gap had the whole tip in). I realised it wasn't spinning after maybe 4 or 5 seconds, and it was enough time to make the motor too hot to touch

blindgeekuk wrote:
And if I can successfully do such a complex mod, what can you do?

Not sure I want to take up the challenge for fear of embarrassing myself! Razz

Seriously though, this is impressive work. And you should thank ON doubly because without him I'd have never bothered to do the RP kit. He dragged me kicking and screaming to get it done back in 2014 and it's one of our longest running products. It has also received some revisions this as of this evening, too...

Good job I want two then! I can do a mk1 and a mk2!

I forgot to tell you to use a round file and make the hole for the bolt in the barrel lug an oval shape, then it fits. You need the bolt else it breaks off.
If the battery is too thick, simply make a shim to go between the battery tray and the lid, I would use evergreen plastic strip, from a model shop, in the correct thickness. I can cut you some plastic strip 2mm thick if you need it.

Good work, awesome stuff.

OldNoob wrote:
I forgot to tell you to use a round file and make the hole for the bolt in the barrel lug an oval shape, then it fits. You need the bolt else it breaks off.

Ah, makes sense, ta mate

OldNoob wrote:
If the battery is too thick, simply make a shim to go between the battery tray and the lid, I would use evergreen plastic strip, from a model shop, in the correct thickness. I can cut you some plastic strip 2mm thick if you need it.

Just going to use it as an excuse to get a better lipo that does fit!

Looking great so far BGUK, will this be making an appearance at GuN 10 by chance lol!!

I'm utterly impressed by this. Fantastic job and I'm way excited for GuN10 now ^_^

S'pose we'll have to run GuN 10 now, if only so BGUK can spray us with darts Smile

Tonights goal was to finish the last few bits off, so I can take it to work and show it off...


Cage alignment - This really did my head in... I tried various things, swapped back to stock wheels, took photos to share on Discord.. nothing worked. I then had a strange thought... which way were my flywheels turning, I hadn't reversed the polarity again had I?
Nope, but something just as stupid...
I had both flywheels going clockwise, so the top one accelerated the dart forward, the bottom one accelerated it backwards... or in laymans turn, the two countered each other. Quick solder later and I rev'd it up and pulled the trigger, not expecting it to work. And instead, emptied a 18 clip into my chest at point blank, drawing blood!

Cyclone control lever - On discord, OldNoob warned me that he'd had issues with the nub that goes on the lever, with it getting caught and embedded into the pusher mechanism. And lo and behold, first trigger pull tonight, and it did  exactly as OldNoob said. I need to replace the lever, and bend it as per OldNoobs suggestion:

Battery tray - On a whim, I tried the 2s battery I have, and it worked nicely, not as wail'ing as the 3s. Tray needs expanding, so I'll try OldNoobs suggestion, see how easy that kind of mod is.

Barrel Extension - OldNoob's suggestion helped, as did some glue

Devcon - Yup, my devcon didn't mix right, so they bits had slipped slightly overnight, and the motor cover came off while doing some other stuff.

I'm very pleased with the performance now its actually firing:

Good effort! The fire control micro-switch lever was the bit i resented the most. Fit it - looks good - do up the blaster - get a jam - undo blaster - re-site - etc - etc. Gets lame very quickly so well done for persevering. That fold in the lever looks like a much more elegant way of achieving what the printed piece did.

Is this wired in live center?

Well that was an amazing read ive been inspired well done mate
payday can't come soon enough for me to start my stryfe!

Awesome work, I really need to get on and finish my Rapid strike mod!

An update to this...

OldNoob did me a massive favour and sent me a new switch with UKNerfWar's crooked lever design. He also sent me an extra hellcat (its twin going to Franksie) and a 3d printed cover for putting a 180 into the pusher.

With 1 week to GuN and having no time/room because my mate is homeless and we're putting up hi and his family, I deicded to lock myself away in my workshop and get this thing finished.

Fitting a 180 into the pusher mech/case was surprisingly easy, and I swear my soldering has got better as I had it in and working in seconds. While I had the soldering iron out, I swapped the connector on my new battery (500mah 65c 3s graphene), which really is my best soldering.

Painting, I had ordered Hycote spray cans because i could get them fast and cheap, and they were the only ones with a deep burgundy metallic that I could find.

Friday night was priming:

This went on a breeze, dried quickly (despite it drizzling as I did it)

I gave it about 15 hours overnight to dry before taping off the bits I wanted black, and spraying the main body the metallic urgundy. It went on nicely, and already had a decent sheen to it, but on Discord, OldNoob said 'just wait until you give it the lacquer'

And then here is the mistake...

I only gave it about 8 hours to dry before I taped it off to do the black. BIG MISTAKE... When someone like OldNoob says leave it 24 hours, listen to them!

I took the tape off and could have almost have cried - there ere sticky messy bits all over, and i'd obviously left a couple of small gaps because black had leaked through. I ran a baby wipe, and the soft wool disc of my dremel over it, and it came up better, not perfect, but ok enough for me.

So this morning, with another 14 hours drying, I took the lacquer to it... There was a moment when I thought i'd sprayed it too thick, but it came out nicely.

I rebuilt it all, and ran a couple of clips through it shooting at my mate and getting him to shoot me. At 10 feet, koosh leave bruises... big ones, in about 30 seconds...

It's not the tidiest paint job, and the hycote black is SHIT! terrible coverage on the 3d parts.


You've set the benchmark high mate. I'm easily 6 weeks behind you and concerned mine will not be up to muster. Fantastic, truest!

I'm no means an expert, but I have found spraying two or three layers of plastic primer on the whole blaster first and rubbed down between coats with very fine wet&dry gives an excellent base and stopped paint reacting.

Have you put this over the chronograph yet?

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