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The Stryfe with No Name (build-a-long)

So these ďpost-a-long-a-modification-buildĒ style posts seem to have become the thing to do now, so I thought Iíd try one myself. This is completely opposite to the usual way I do things as I donít like to talk about a build until it is finished, just in case it all goes wrong and never seeís the light of day or I do something stupid and can pretend it never happened.

So I thought it was about time I tried out doing an integration, Iíve done the LiPo thing, Iíve made a simple swarmfire sentry gun, Iíve added a raspberry pi camera to a Hyperfire, Iíve done the Hellcats thing, Iíve painted blasters in many colours, done the decal thing and even gold leafed a Stryfe... so I thought it was time to try out an integration.

So after reaching out to the Britnerf community for a certain Blaster I was after, Rab stepped up and offered me exactly what I was looking for, much thanks for that!

A few days later a package arrived.....

And inside was a terrible blaster!

But it is large and quite sexy!

So after getting rid of all the bits I don't need I'm left with this.

Now if you had paid attention to the blasters I like to use you may have noticed that there is one I like above all others, and thatís the Stryfe. Itís flywheel, which I like, Itís Semi-Auto so it stops me spraying my load everywhere in one go and the wiring inside is simple enough for me to understand. Iím getting better at the whole wireís thing and itís not quite the voodoo magic I treated it like a few months back.

So hereís what Iím planning...

Iím not the first to do this and the oneís Iíve seen look really nice and importantly this build gives me something Iíve not had before in a blaster and thatís internal space.

Look at all the empty space!!!!

You could put anything in there, LiPo's...

All the Raspberry Pi's in the world...

A flask of whisky...

to be continued....

Do we get to vote on what goes in the stock?

There's definately going to be a LiPo in there, I just need to figure out a way to put them in and take them out without having to take apart the whole blaster. I also want to add some kind of lighting to the blaster when I pull the rev trigger, some kind of side LED's that streak along the side of the blaster would be good.

I'm also planning on putting a little raspberry pi zero with camera and wifi dongle in there for something that I'm not mentioning until I've got a prototype working.

So even though I now have more space, I'm quickly filling it.

What LED's to use I'm completely unsure about,

This looks impressive, I wouldn't mind something like this. but I had visions of the light traveling along the blaster a bit like Knightriders.

Oh and there needs to be a voltmeter there somewhere too Smile

Love the idea of a Knight Industries blaster.. †Perhaps to rig the Pi to come out with pithy comments?

"You're low on ammunition Michael. Perhaps you should starting hitting the enemy?"
"Good shot Michael. †I'm sure the child deserved it."

Short little update today... think I've found a pretty simple way to make the back end of the blaster removable so a LiPo can easy be plugged and unplugged without having to take the whole blaster apart.

If I cut straight down the black line I think the position of the screws should mean that the shell is still quite sturdy and it means I only have to undo 5 screws to take the side of the stock off.

If its not too sturdy I may need to investigate a method to keep the two pieces more sturdy at the join. I seem to remember a video of Bobolobo's where he used a kind of metal clip to keep a battery tray attached which could work.

On my build I'm using a stock stryfe battery door on the end of a bsuk stryfe battery tray extender and I'm thinking of using something like this...

... probably not the best for your purposes but I'll let you know how it works out. [/list]

I was thinking of something along these lines.

Oh yeah, †he had that on the back of one of the stampedes, †either the 'murica or commie one, †I think. Very practical.

EDIT: It was the Corbyn one (jk)

So today was the day that I began the actual slicing and dicing of the two shells. I was out in the shed, in the cold for far longer than I had planned and I only managed to sort out one side, hopefully the other side should be a bit quicker to sort now I know where exactly I need to cut and dremmel.

The front of the blaster is still very rough, I left myself plenty of extra length to play with and I'll cut it down once I've decided exactly where I'm going to cut.

During the extensive dremmeling of the Centurion shell I discovered that I was going to have to position the Stryfe higher up in the shell than I had planned, this meant that I had to remove some parts of the thumbhole area that I didn't want to but if I hadn't it would have been uncomfortable to hold. This means that I'm going to have to do a lot more re-building with epoxy-putty than I really wanted too, but that's the way it goes.

I also had to remove more of the Stryfe's body shell that I thought I would due to it being placed higher in the shell. This means that the stock area isn't quite as secure as I want, and as this is where the return spring attaches I need to make sure this is strong.

So next job is to sort out the other side of the shell and then comes the actual attaching of the stryfe and centurion shells. I have some devcon on the way, and I need to buy some Putty. Hopefully I'll be able to get to it next weekend.

-- Next day edit

So after looking closer at the other versions of this integration online it appears that others have pretty much removed the bottom half of the centurion at the front, where I have kept it so that my stryfe is enclosed in the centurion shell. This is why my stryfe sits higher inside the centurion. Now my decision is do I carry on with this or do I whip out my spare centurion I was able to source last week and try again..... as cutting into the top of the thumbhole area was really something I wanted to avoid.

I'll have to have a think about that one.

Looks like an epic build, cant wait to see it finished. The integrated flask of whisky is something I could definitely get into Very Happy

Seriously Bigal don't encourage him lol

Sweet work, TBR. Definitely want to do an integration now

So I've been having a think about things I can add to the blaster that I havn't done before, this has lead me onto the idea of an ammo counter. Now I don't really see this as being that practical a thing in use really but more something fun to build and add to the blaster.

As I'm planning for there to be a flavour of Raspberry Pi in the shell it shouldn't be that hard to put together. From what I've seen it's simply an IR emitter and a receiver in the barrel, when a dart breaks the beam then the Pi registers a dart being fired.

Will have to do some experimentation when my IR components arrive.

Oh Lord, and so it begins ........ lol

Something that just occurred to me. Smile


looking at utilizing that for your ammo counter read out?


something like this.


Please don't double post. Use the edit button if you have something to add something before someone else posts.

Posts Merged.



I wasn't, due to the space restrictions, but I could possibly depending on size of display now I'm thinking about it....I was thinking about the other thing I told you about that I'm not mentioning on here yet.

So it's been a few days since I last posted an update, this is mainly due to the fact that it's not very neighbourly to be dremmelling at night so my available hours have been limited.

I've almost got the stryfe and centurion shells to fit together, I've had a little bother getting the stryfe to fit inside the centurion and I've had to remove more of the centurion shell to get the stryfe to fit. It's very close now and hopefully this evening I'll be able to finish so that the shells all fit together, then I have to actually bond everything together... with a mixture of Devcon and Epoxy putty I think

There's some larger gaps between the outer Centurion and the inner Stryfe in places, I'm not sure yet how exactly I'm going to fill those in, as I need the surface area to keep things stuck together firmly. I assume lots of epoxy putty but I'm open to idea's.

Also the last few day's I've had various electronic components arrive and I've started to test them to make sure they work. I see lots of learning of python in the next few weeks as I try to get things working as I want.

I also had a thought regarding the Ammo counter I'm planning on installing. My initial idea was to have an IR beam in the barrel that would be broken when a dart passes. Then I realised I'm putting an ammo counter in a single shot Stryfe with a mechanical mechanism. After a bit of googling to back up my thoughts I've come to the conclusion that I'm simply going to use a small microswitch that gets pressed when the stryfe mechanism fires. This way I avoid the potential issue's that may arrise due to using an IR beam. Now this does mean that my counter will count even if a dart isn't fired but I feel that this trade off I can live with, it's Nerf, not life and death.

Now this does mean that my counter will count even if a dart isn't fired but I feel that this trade off I can live with, it's Nerf, not life and death.

Now you say that, but when you're giving it the whole 'are you feeling lucky punk' and it turns out you have fired six shots rather than five you're going to wish your counter was more accurate  Very Happy

Aside from that - loving the build.

If i've interpreted the problem with the shell integration right i was going to put some metal/plastic reinforcing rods between two shells i'm looking at joining to give it a bit of internal rigidity. And just devcon those into place where they won't interfere with internal mechanisms.

If i've interpreted the problem with the shell integration right i was going to put some metal/plastic reinforcing rods between two shells i'm looking at joining to give it a bit of internal rigidity.

That sounds like a good plan, I'll have to investigate materials myself to do this, specially as the Stryfe isn't symetrical.

With regards to the Ammo counter, I believe it's really only going to error in saying I have less darts than I have. If every trigger pull counts as a fire and for some reason a dart didn't come out I'm going to have more darts than I thought, I can't see me ever having less.

So last night I spent some time in the shed with my dremmel, trying to get these shells to play nicely together. I again had to remove various bits of the Centurion shell and chunks from the Stryfe, being careful to keep all the bits needed for the blaster to remain functional. I just couldn't get the front end to sit nicely...... but I think I've got it now. A little pressure is needed at the front to keep the two shell halves of the Centurion together but I think it will be fine. I also need to decide exactly where I'm cutting at the front as I still have a chunk of extra plastic here.

I also had a bit of time to look into my little 8x8 LED display that I'm planning on using with the Ammo counter, I've managed to get it to show numbers, two little indicator squares for... things?!? and even a picture of a skull Smile

10 Second Youtube video of display in action -

A skull? are you the baddies?

Franksie wrote:
A skull? are you the baddies?

Smile It was the only .ppm formatted image I had to hand to test with

Well tonight was a disappointing evening. Basically down to me, not being good with a soldering iron.
I spent far too long and much too much effort trying to solder a Zero LiPo board to 8 GPIO pins on a Raspberry Pi. Finally got it soldered together and it's not working.... Solder sucker ordered from Amazon and Ill try again (third time lucky) when I can properly clean off the solder.


Should of given me a shout first as i have a solder sucker lol.

Are you using flux?

Apparently I'm using and I quote "A lead-free alloy solder containing a non-corrosive flux"

I've been in touch with a friend who knows his electronics and he's going to take a look at it in a few days and hopefully sort it out for me Smile


Small update today, after playing with my 8x8 display and really liking it I popped onto eBay during lunch at work and had a mooch around and discovered a 0.98 inch OLED display for £ arrived today and it works and looks really cool, it's 128x64 so has an much higher resolution than the 8x8. Not decided for sure which to use yet but I'm definitely leaning towards the OLED!

The Ammo Counter

It's cold outside and I'm waiting on some materials, so this week I've been working on the Ammo Counter for my blaster.

It's gone quite well, I've found some simple guides out there that have helped me with some specifics and the Python language isn't too difficult to understand, mainly due to me having to learn a little C# for my work in Unity at the office.

So I present to you the AMMO Counter! (It's a YouTube Video)

- edit - Since I recorded this last night I've slightly altered the Reload mechanism, now it doesn't detect a reload till the wire/button is pressed so it only reloads when a mag is actually put back in the blaster. While there is no mag the screen displays total shots fired and uptime of the Pi, although thinking about it I might turn the screen off to conserve battery power.

Also if anyone has any idea's for other things I can show on the screen then let me know. I'm struggling to think of anything.

Perhaps you could have..
.. the total shots fired toggle-able to count down your mAhs of your battery? If you could work out the energy cost of the set up you may be able to have that coming off the total and so give a rough battery level indicator? Or even plug it into a Voltmeter and have that display through the display?
.. be able to toggle the display to a graphic of the gun and have it show what circuits are in use at any given time? May be actually useful as a self diagnostic device to show if something has broken.
.. perhaps have a button whereby you can count your tags/deaths?
.. Perhaps run brushless motors off a PWM thing? And have it so you can tell them to run at low speed at all times allowing zero spin up?
.. Perhaps it could somehow detect a jam? There's probably a clever way but maybe through a mic and motor noise? And have the display instantly flash it like a red alert warning all over the screen. Could be combined with...
...tiny cam and LED set up looking into the firing bay/flywheels? Perhaps save on all the energy of opening the jam door.
.. Perhaps have a motor temp gauge?
.. Perhaps fit it with a range finder of some description and then give it a level indicator so it can indicate the correct angle to reach the distance and then whether you have tilted the gun correctly?
.. Compass and perhaps map of area?

I know nothing about something like this but I can dream..

Minky wrote:
Or even plug it into a Voltmeter and have that display through the display?

This I've looked into, and some very clever people online have told me how to do it, but it's way beyond me at the moment.;t=167343&p=1077081#p1077081

Huh, it surprises me the Pi doesn't have a built in Analogue to Digital Converter (ADC). It'd be trivial to then use that, a voltage divider and some rearranged equations to give you your voltage. If the particular Pi board you've got does sport ADC, let me know and I'll get you the bits you need to do it.

Boff wrote:
Huh, it surprises me the Pi doesn't have a built in Analogue to Digital Converter (ADC).

No it doesn't have ADC build in, I've seen these for a couple of quid. (wasn't sure if there would be a clash as I'm using SPI for the OLED)

Your offer is great thank you, if you believe the cost of required parts is pretty low then I think I'll give it a shot, I felt like the required build may be beyond me, but the fact that you used the word 'Trivial' in your reply has filled me with some confidence that this is a bit easier than I originally thought and if all does go wrong I can still fall back on the voltmeters on eBay Smile

Yup, that's a 10bit ADC. On top of that you're going to need a 15k resistor and a 8.2k resistor. You then wire them according to the diagram here with R1 being 15k and R2 being 8.2k. This set up allows you to input a voltage up to around 13V and have it read somewhere below 5V for the ADC to then read. Since the voltage changes linearly with the input, you can back calculate the input voltage from the voltage at the ADC pin.

Since you've got a 10bit ADC then you've got 204.8 ADC units per volt so you need to convert your ADC reading to a voltage before you move to calculate the Voltage In. That means you need to divide the ADC reading by 204.8 (or simply 1024/5 if you prefer a more precise approach) to give you the Input Voltage.

The voltage divider equation is rearranged to this: Voltage In = (Voltage Out/R2) x (R1 +R2) Remember you'll need to use a float or other decimal friendly data type to store your voltage before outputting it to the screen.

I've been playing with similar stuff recently on Arduino for various reasons so here's my relevant code. It's public domain and obviously built for Arduino but reads the input voltage before converting it and sending along a serial (usually USB) connection. The delay is there to prevent the ADC from being swamped. The Arduino documentation recommends only taking ADC measurements every 100 microseconds or so. The Pi with its multi-threaded processor might not have such a restriction.


#define RESISTOR_1 15000
#define RESISTOR_2 8200


void setup() {
 †// put your setup code here, to run once:



void loop() {
 †// put your main code here, to run repeatedly:

 †VOLT_OUT = analogRead(1) / 204.8;


EDIT: Just re-read your post. SPI allows you to have multiple devices daisy chained together. You'll need to look at how that works specifically for the Pi since it's a much more complex architecture than an ATMega328 chip. Very Happy

Wow, I think I actually understood that, that was nicely clear, it almost seems simple.

So I would splice into the wire from the LiPo, †add the first resister then connect to the ADC which then connects to the Pi. After the splice in the main wire I then add the other resistor and job done. (Besides the python code)

Something I'm unsure of is that there doesn't seem to be a returning wire? When wiring in a Voltmeter there's a couple of wires but the diagram only shows one?

The far side of R2 routes to ground. I think it's probably best to think of it as a T junction. The link between the positive terminal and ground is bridged by the two resistors in series. The vertical part of the T is then linked to the input of ADC between the two resistors. I would fritz up a diagram but some fucker stole my land line. :\

That makes perfect sense, it just seemed strange to me to have a wire come out from the main 'trunk' and not go back again.

My previous experience with LED's, Buzzers and Motors have all had two wires, I assume this one wire is because we are reading the information from the wire and not actually doing anything with it.

Right then I think I'm going to be buying an ADC etc tomorrow. Thanks again for really making this clear and easy to understand.

You showed me the reply you got back from the other guys on the tinterweb with their explanation of how to get voltage to display on your screen and then reading Boff's above and the difference is like night and day lol, so much so I think i even understood Boff's version!!

You're welcome. I guess it helps not having a technical background in this area, I've had to do the idiot grade stuff, too, so explaining it to others is a touch easier. Smile


Just done some poking around and I have to say, I'm super glad the Arduino ecosystem natively accepts ADC. The MCP3008 has lots of channels but between that and the SPI, you're looking at a lot more code and supporting architecture. For one ADC input, you're looking at 8 pins worth of wire plus any inputs. Yikes!

A couple of tips. First make sure you connect the ARef pin to a regulated 5V line for the conversion to work using the equations in my previous post. then have a pretty solid guide from there.

If you wanted a nice breakout board then this one is a few quid more. It's 16 bit but I could easily alter the code to cope for you. Smile

EDIT #2:

So I edited my original code. It's posted below. You can now change the number of bits on your ADC by just changing one number in the define block and it'll apply it at run time accordingly. I've built this for size not speed.


#define RESISTOR_1 15000 //Value of Vcc side resistor for V divider
#define RESISTOR_2 8200 //Value of ground side resistor for V Divider
#define ADC_BITS 10 //Number of bits your ADC unit has
#define ADC_PIN 1 //Analogue pin for voltage reading

float VOLT_IN; //Set up a float to store the full voltage including decimals for writing to the screen

void setup() {
  // put your setup code here, to run once:



void loop() {
  // put your main code here, to run repeatedly:

  VOLT_IN = ((analogRead(ADC_PIN) / ((2 ^ ADC_BITS)) / 5) / RESISTOR_2) * (RESISTOR_1 + RESISTOR_2);


Boff wrote:

If you wanted a nice breakout board

I had read your original post this morning and then purchased a MCP3008 plus the required resistors, and then I saw this 25v Voltage Sensor Module which does the same thing as the resistors but seems more sturdy (I know what my soldering is like). THEN I saw your edit about the breakout board, looks good and being able to use less wires is a definate plus....I might now grab one.

It's lucky I consider this whole electronics thing (and the integration) an "enjoyable journey" as I keep buying more and more little bits and bobs and it does all add up, but it's fun and that's why I do it Smile

The carbon film resistors you need for the voltage divider are cheap as chips and pretty much idiot proof. I wouldn't bother with the board linked in the ebay listng, it's just more space and pins than you'd otherwise use. You'd still need the MCP3008 or the breakout board I linked to get ADC on your Pi.

It's amazing what you acquire during these projects and then go back and use for something completely different. That's the joy of a lot of this stuff, you can use it for pretty much anything if you get the software right. I'm currently working with RGB LEDs originally bought for the burst fire module but I'm working them into motion sensitive ballgown instead... Very Happy

Boff wrote:
I'm currently working with RGB LEDs originally bought for the burst fire module but I'm working them into motion sensitive ballgown instead... Very Happy

That sounds interesting, you need to post a picture of you wearing it when done Smile

Also LED's will be the next part of my project to tackle once I have this screen etc working.

TBR, I know you know this, but I think you're a little bit of a genius!

I've been ill for a good few days now so no real progress has been made, this evening I tried to wire up the ADC to my Pi to measure a 9 volt and it didn't seem to be doing it correctly, so I'll have to give it another bash tomorrow.

A few pics for those interested.

Pi all wired up

Closer look at the resisters

I also ordered this that I may use instead of the loose chip as I think wiring will be simpler but I haven't wanted to get the soldering iron out to sort it.

So I plugged in a 9 volt and ran an example script that simply displays all the chips pin inputs, nothing seems consistent, I would assume pin 0 would have a single repeating number while the others were showing zero.

Just realised I hadn't posted about last weekends work before I got ill, so before today's update here's last weeks.

So I started to put the internal ribs inside the blaster to support the lopsided internal stryfe shell. I really lucked out with some square styrene tubes that were exactly the right width.

I also filled in the long thin holes in the side with some thin styrene strips with epoxy putty over the top, this will be sanded down nice and flat when the time comes.

Now for this week!

It was finally time, I couldn't put it off any longer, I had to attach these two shells together. I used Devcon to attach one shell to the ribbing I attached last week and on the other side used it to directly attach the stryfe to the centurion shell. I was really careful to make sure everything stayed lined up so that the two shells would go back together. Once the Devcon had some time to dry I went round various parts of the joins between the shells with epoxy putty to strengthen the connection. I also started to fill in some of the gaps in the handle area too.

Once I had finished the epoxy putty work I put the shells back together to make sure all was good...

All wasn't good, somehow I had managed to nudge something and they didn't go together....


So with some pushing and twisting and a little bit of praying I managed to get the shell halves together. To try and make sure it all stays this way I have now wrapped the blaster in string while it all drys and hopefully all will be good, if not I'm going to call the samaritans. :/

The wait is over....a new post has appeared!

So has the blaster survived? The answer is yes! I haven't managed to get as much done recently as I had hoped, that's the nature of Christmas and family.

My blaster is now together and I have created and sanded smooth the joins in the handle and the thumbhole stock area, I'm quite pleased with how this has turned out. What I'm not so pleased with is the fact that when the two shell halves are together the internal Stryfe shells at the front have about a 1-2mm gap between them. I'm hoping it's not a big issue but we will see about that later when I've got the internals in place. I have a spare Stryfe if I need to remove the current Stryfe and try again but I really don't want it to come to that as it's Devcon'd in and that would be a nightmare of a job!

I have also cut out the plate I'm going to use at the front of the blaster to cover the big hole, I'll get to fitting that in a few days I hope.

The internal electricals are all put together and working, they are not inside the blaster yet but the display shows darts left, total darts fired and current battery voltage (9v at the moment for testing). Theres a lot of wires to achieve this but luckily the blaster has lots of room inside. Unfortunately I can't directly attach the Zero LiPo Hat to the GPIO pins on the Pi as I had planned as it blocks access to the I2C pins used by the ADC to detect the voltage. The OLED Screen is also running off SPI and not I2C as I couldn't get it to work so its using 4 wires instead of 2.

What I really like is that those last two sentences would have made no sense to me a few weeks back, lots of learning for me with this project!


Things have been quiet here recently and that has mainly been down to the weather. It's coooooold!

When you have to go out into the shed in temperatures around zero its hard to stick around and get much done, but the last week or so hasn't been too bad so work has commenced.... kind of.

I've done what I thought I might have to do and unfortunately start the shell work again from scratch.

Even though my thumbhole stock was beautifully comfortable and the join between the two blasters was smooth, the missaligned internal structure was just too much for me.

I was building a replacement front end for the blaster using styrene/putty/devcon and it looked great, I smoothed all the edges and made it nice to hold but while working on this with the stryfe's barrel sticking out the front it was made more obvious how out of alignment the internals were. It's not good when your barrel is easily 10 degree's off from straight.

Now I could have carried on, there's nothing actually wrong, it's just not straight. I know though that it will really really irritate me that it's not straight and after watching a video on reddit of a guy spending two years building a stryfe/stampede integration and starting the shell work again I decided that yes, this was what needed to happen, I need to do this right.

So shell integration v1 is now being thought of as practice, I've learnt a few things from it's construction that should hopefully make v2 better or at least make sure that things are straight this time!


Please don't double (or indeed quadruple) post. This one was a pain in the arse to merge and tidy up. Factoring multiple posts is a moderation nightmare and risks me losing content when I do it. In future, please be sure to edit posts or copy old content into new posts if you want to bump a thread. -Boff


I'm really glad you bumped this! I forgot I read it before and just enjoyed reviewing it! Love the idea!

tbr wrote:

I like both of these guys already Very Happy


Please ensure quotes are shorter than your reply, thank you. Smile -Boff


Apologies for the quadruple posts, I had assumed due to the nature of the thread being a time based follow along project, that multiple concurrent posts would be ok as it's showing a timeline of the progress accompanied with the time stamps of the posts. I'll stick to the usual rules from now on.

So last night, while listening to the discord chat, I was in the shed hopefully doing the last of the major dremmelling to get the version two progressed. And I seem to have done it, the Stryfe is inside the Centurion and it all appears to be straight. I haven't done any actual bonding I simply used sellotape but the theory appears sound.

Also today Raspberry Pi released a new version of the Pi I'm using that has built in WiFi and Bluetooth so that's going to make things more compact as I won't need to have a usb wifi dongle hanging out the side of the Pi, even though there is lots of room in the centurion stock I don't want to take up unnecessary space.

Tonight it's cutting and sawing various styrene tubes to fill the gap inside the centurion shell due to the lopsided stryfe body.

- March 9th

I've been in contact with a company that Chromes various things, after a quote to get this blaster chromed. As I had no idea what this would cost I was just after a ballpark figure, well £120 I was quoted, a bit rich for my blood but an interesting bit of information.

- April 10th

I'm right in the middle of my busy period at work so things have been even slower than usual, but progress has been made.

Most of the Stryfe has been Devcon'd in place within the Centurion and importantly it's looking straight, thank goodness for that as I really didn't want to have to start a version 3, and to be honest I wouldn't have.

I soldered up the electronics to the simple mounting plate I had made and it didn't work anymore, somewhere my soldering had let me down. I also then found after I got things working that I had managed to bugger up the OLED screen so every other line in the display wasn't working, now waiting for a replacement to arrive as I can't tell if things are working correctly or not without it.

It still visually looks like nothing has really changed in over 6 weeks or so now. Ho-Hum

- April 12th

New screen arrived and it all works! Easter weekend is this weekend so I hope to get a lot done, fingers crossed!

- April 19th

Managed to figure a few things out and I've also got a chunk of the soldering sorted, just waiting now for the arrival of a few more JST connectors for wiring up the other buttons so I can disconnect them when taking the shell apart or removing the internal electronics mounting etc. Havn't shrunk the heat shrink yet just incase there is an issue.

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