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[WIP] The HushPuppy - Full Auto Bullpup Demolisher

Greetings! First post, so just showing what's on the bench at the moment. Please bear with me while I get to grips with the Forum's formatting standards...

Don't get me wrong... I LOVE my Rayvens. But there have always been these little... niggles. So in an effort to address all Hasbro stuffed up with the bullpup format, I've turned to a most unlikely contender for a base blaster: the Demolisher. Got one. Hated it. This one was what was left over after taking off the only useful bit (the HAMP ) to use on the Rapnadomolisher. It had been sitting in the shed for months staring at me like a sad little puppy that had just had it's knackers lopped, until finally it dawned:

a little... PUPPY!

So, may I present to you... the HushPuppy!

HushPuppy WIP - State of Build as of 3rd March 2017:

Video #1:'Tater-cam overview of build as of 10/12/16
Video #2:Mag-release in action.
Video #3:Battery-box tear-down and battery-tray locking-mech in action.
Video #4:Mag-release teardown.

The Brief: Build a Better Bullpup (aka: Fixing everything that's wrong with the Rayven...)

* Full Auto rather than semi-auto (Rapidstrike pusher-box).
* Fire-control: 16amp micro-switches with short and responsive pull rather than janky manual trigger.
* Wiring: 16AWG. Bullpup layout allows very short uncomplicated run: battery>switchgear>motors>return via thumb-hole bottom bracket
* Flywheel cage: Rayven's is a rattley fit. Demolisher's is nice, but may as well be replaced with Artifact Red flywheel cage. Drops in solidly onto three of the four attachment points. Minor bodywork needed to achieve screw-down on fourth.
* Flywheels: Worker serrated concave Rapidstrike
* Motors: TBA [2S 180's]
* Stock: Cut-down Rapidstrike. Taller and longer reach than Rayven. May lengthen reach again slightly for better 1-handed firing.
* Magazine housing and alignment: Demolisher's is rock-solid and STRAIGHT.
* Mag-release: to be extended using RS stock's lock-lever.
* NOISE: Demo's flywheel motors are on opposite side of shell to operator's ear. Shell is also very rigid compared to Rayven, so less vibration.
* Vibration damping: glued between shell layers.
* Balance: as much weight low and to the front as possible, or at least directly above grip. Battery and tac-gear placement crucial here. It would actually be possible to fit all the tac-gear I want AND the battery inside the Demo shell in just the right spots... but that's for another build.
* Battery: grip-mounted power-tool-style battery. Low and forward and away from your wrist(!) Cutting up a Mako (Dewalt 12vMax knockoff) drill for the battery tray/connector. Fits 2 or 3 18650 batteries or a decent Lipo in the tray.
* Stowability: As best as possible, maintain ability to transfer in and out of backpack without getting hung up on stock, grip or mag-well.
* Handgrip: Recon Strongarm. Angle and scale was wrong with Firestrike. Rayven's would fit nicely onto obvious mounting-points, but I just couldn't bring myself to make the cuts...
* Thumb-hole: Stampede. Demo's mag well is very wide at base so hand-grip connecting-bar guides wrist away from there. Rayven's would have fitted too, but not quite as well.
* Barrel-length: without Stampede flash-supressor, shorter than the Rayven by about 40mm.
* Over-all length: without Stampede flash-supressor, again shorter than the Rayven.

Early lineage (mid 2015) - The Nerkita Rayven (9.6v NiCad Makita battery-drill integation):

Hushpuppy - first concept mockup (late 2016):

Drill to hack up for battery tray and connection:

RS stock, Stampede thumb-hole and Recon grip integrated:

Artifact Red Cage rough fit:

More pretty pictures of orange blasters here:

Feeling my way into this build... finding that while it looks compact it's not as small as it seems!

Next step: Rapidstrike pusher-box and power-drill battery-tray integration.

Thanks for checking it out Very Happy


Hello and welcome!

This looks like a really cool build, an adventurous one aswell.

Good luck with the build, looking forward to seeing it finished.

That drill is rebelle tacticool. Mod concept is cool. That is all. [/list]

L11 wrote:
Hello and welcome!

This looks like a really cool build, an adventurous one aswell.

Good luck with the build, looking forward to seeing it finished.

Hey thanks! Bit off quite a mouthful here... it's going to be a bumpy ride  Shocked

Minky wrote:
That drill is rebelle tacticool. Mod concept is cool.

Cheers!  Smile

Minky wrote:
That is all.

Heh! Tough room Wink  Hopefully I'll improve!


Please do not double post and quotes should not be longer than the new content added after them. Please take a minute to read the Code of Conduct, it's a sticky at the top of the page.


Thats gonna look sweet, welcome to Britnerf 😊

Someone will be along in a minute to tell you about "double posting"

Back to back posts by the same authour are frowned apon, theres an edit button, just add to your last post. Just a heads up.

Actually saw this over on reddit too, looks cool.


Back seat moderating is also frowned upon... -Boff


Rab wrote:
Thats gonna look sweet, welcome to Britnerf 😊

Someone will be along in a minute to tell you about "double posting"

Back to back posts by the same authour are frowned apon, theres an edit button, just add to your last post. Just a heads up.

Actually saw this over on reddit too, looks cool.

Hey cheers for that. Missing the "multiquote" button  Wink

I'll try and use this thread as the main blow-by blow build-record from now on and only update the Reddit with the major milestones.

Glad to be aboard!


Trying out some quick 'n dirty variations on subtle styling changes:

Minimal CARB-style PDW (Avatar...) Closed stock, Retaliator grip.

Closed stock, Retaliator grip, Makita drill foregrip (fits just nicely around Spectre barrel)

Open stock, Strongarm grip (much better grip for actual use...)


Finally got a to PC so I could make the edit. Please don't double post. If you want to add new information and bump the thread, copy the old post into a new one and delete the old one. -Boff


Top picture is the best I think.

Sorry if I came off as dismissive, I didn't mean to. Trust me, you're broadcasting loud over the inspiration airwaves. You've got me thinking on a SA80-alike version of the RS.. And pink drills..

Good Work!
UK Foam

That's cool!
The Dark Kitten

Although bull pups have there disadvantages i must say this is looking very nice!
I really dig the demolisher proportions and then the overwhelming orange complements the build very mush so

Minky wrote:
Trust me, you're broadcasting loud over the inspiration airwaves.

Sorry if I came across as thin-skinned Wink Bullpup's rock - go hard!

Hopefully I'm getting the hang of the Forum posting rules. Apologies Boff!

Right-o... Decision time:

The ultra-minimised Demolipup PDW will be a project for another day. Going to concentrate first on customising this one as a new 'primary' for me. This means the major focus initially will be balance and ergonomics. A few images follow to compare scale and features with other blasters:

Rayven vs Hushpuppy.

Demolisher vs Hushpuppy.

Rapidstrike vs Hushpuppy.

Stryfe vs Hushpuppy.

Full-dress Rayven vs Hushpuppy

Some measurements:

Max. Length (stocks attached/extended):
Rayven - 425mm
Demolisher - 630mm
Rapidstrike - 680mm
Stryfe (Raider stock) - 570mm
Hushpuppy - 400mm (480mm with flash suppressor) SHORTEST

Max. Height (at grip):
Rayven - 205mm
Demolisher - 180mm (240 at Launcher)
Rapidstrike - 200mm
Stryfe - 180mm
Hushpuppy - 190mm

Relative height of Rayven and Hushpuppy stocks. Another feature the Rayven falls down on.

Usable Stock Height:
Rayven - 70mm
Demolisher - 110mm
Rapidstrike - 90mm
Stryfe (Raider Stock) - 135mm
Hushpuppy - 90mm (140mm if body of blaster included) TALLEST

Stock Length (from rev-trigger to closest part of stock):
Rayven - 310mm
Demolisher - 280mm
Rapidstrike - 305mm
Stryfe (Raider Stock) - 310mm
Hushpuppy - 310mm

So given that most stocks are about the same length, it would seem usable stock height has a bit more to do with comfort than first thought. I've tried to bring the Hushpuppy's as far down as possible too so it can be shouldered relatively high, bringing the rail-mounted optics in line without having to bend your neck too much.

Inner Barrel Lengths. Hushpuppy cuts down on unnecessary barrel-drag too:

1. Demolisher (stock) - 120mm
2. HushPuppy (Recon, straight-fluted+Artifact Red Cage, no flash supressor) - 132mm(ish)
3. Rapidstrike (stock) - 153mm
4. Rayven (stock) - 175mm

I'll be adding the Stampede flash-suppressor for general use (it just seems to balance the look!) but hollowing it out so it shouldn't affect performance.

Max. Width:
Rayven - 70mm (body is more like 50mm, but that battery tray...)
Demolisher - 70mm (tac-rail)
Rapidstrike - 71mm (tac-rails. 67mm at battery tray
Stryfe  - 50mm
Hushpuppy - 64mm (HP has side tac-rail removed - all tac gear to be internal) CHUNKY, BUT RESPECTABLE. Waist measurement will grow as 180's get added, but no side-rail or other protrusions means it'll still be a compact unit.

Weight (no batteries or mag):
Rayven - 600gm
Demolisher - 900gm / 1100gm with stock
Rapidstrike - 900gm
Stryfe - 400gm / 520gm with Raider stock
Hushpuppy - 600gm (Artifact Red Cage. No motors, pusher-box or battery tray) RESPECTABLE, BUT GROWING HERE TOO (it is just a puppy, after all...)

Where the Hushpuppy really wins with weight is in balance. It's effectively got a full-length stock but as much weight as possible is close to the grip so it's remarkably agile (compared to long, front-heavy blasters like the RS or more wobbly-stocked ones like the Stryfe) and despite the bulk easily fireable one-handed at arms length. The horrible L-R balance of the Rayven been addressed too.

Fore-Grip detail. Re-purposed Demolisher 'guard-rail', moved from above the barrel.

After extensive testing, the Strongarm grip and trigger have turned out the most comfortable.

Firestrike was too small - both in my hand (not enough roll-control) and for 16Amp micro-switches.
Recon grip was more upright, meaning your wrist wasn't as bent when shouldering the blaster, but rev+firing trigger positioning relative to grip was less than ideal. Wide at the back too so would have needed LOTS of filing and filling...

Strongarm's though is sure and solid in the hand, fingers falling naturally to the trigger(s). The grip flares at the top so it actually rests on top of your hand making for a very ergonomic fit and easier directing of aim. Oddly, there's a couple of subtle little indents in the bottom of the SA's trigger-guard that also appear (and make ergonomic sense...) on blasters equipped with a rev-trigger, plus a little nub where you'd normally rest your rev-trigger finger to keep it "safe".

This one's been sawn out using the obvious body separation-lines... which just happen to PERFECTLY match the sloping flange on the Demolisher body (go figure!). A screw here on each side of the grip is all that's needed to hold the grip on really steadily.

In this postion, the fore-grip can also 'open', allowing access to the potential NEW spot for battery-tray housing (ie: thinking of ditching the external grip-mounted power-drill battery and going for full internal alį Rapidstike).

Relative positioning of trigger-guard and fore-grip allows thumb-clearance on tac-grip.

More to follow...

"The HushPuppy... quietly wrecking your shit since 2016"

Update: 6th Dec 2016

Trying a Praxis barrel (or "SiXV`dd", as it appears on the side here...) to take the battery tray. I'll be starting with 2 x 18650's in a remote control-sized jiffy box and trying to hard-mount an XT60 connection internally to do away with loose wiring. There'd be enough room in there to take a beefy 25x50x125mm Lipo(!) if you cut out the Demo's central screw-post, but that may end up too heavy for the build (there's a LOT of weight being taken on that grip-hand...)


Using a 1/4" chisel to to break the solvent weld on the mouth-piece.


I love the Rayven and this looks fantastic! That's a great build. Hasbro wish...

Justajolt wrote:
looks fantastic!

Cheers! Looking good, but finding the balance and feel in the hand is a subtle and delicate thing... Maybe if I just duct-taped it to my arm...

The Strongarm grip had a nice wide flare that sat really comfortably on top of your hand, spreading the weight and adding quite a bit of stability... until I mounted it to the Praxis barrel. I had to file off most of that flare to blend to the barrel's chamfered edges, so now the blaster "rolls" more easily and you're feeling the weight more. Additionally, the grip has crept incrementally towards the mag-well and has just started to make the thumb-hole feel cramped. Will need to be re-done, dammit, but that's the price of exploration!

Good thing I've got a couple of  strong arms up my sleeves ;0)

UPDATE: 10/12/16  !!VIDEO!!

'Tater-cam overview of build-to-date now viewable on YouTube :0)

UPDATE: 23/12/16 - First, catch your Spectre barrel...

The Little Things... Making a Barrel Attachment:

Skin and gut. A good wide chisel is handy here.

We'll want the inner barrel and the mounting sleeve.

Trim mounting sleeve so it'll fit snugly inside the Stampede muzzle without rotating.

Fit the inner barrel into the Stampede muzzle. A 1" sanding drum is handy here...

Using a needle held in a pin vice, scribe deeply into the inner barrel until that section pops out.

File and sand smooth.

Finished components. Muzzle tip has had a lip turned into it's backside to seat the inner barrel. Mounting sleeve packed out with masking tape until glue-up time.



Barrel attachment can also take a cut-down Makita drill fore-grip. Practi-cool!

180 Motor and Cover Installation

Place-holder 180's trial installation.

Drill a hole through the centre of each of these holes into the external shell. The shaft of a 180 motor will now pass through both shells, allowing you to trace the motor's outline for an accurate cut.

Firestrike. Note battery cover at base of grip. We'll be needing two of these...

Strip internals from cover. The snips shown are jeweller's end-nippers. They cut absolutely flush to a flat surface and are pretty much my most used tool after the double ended wax-file.

Cut the ends of the covers down to the internal web. Butt them together with screws and...

...cover those motors!

A bit of shaping needed on the underside of the new cover to match the profile of the shell. The "Nerf" logo has been shaved down too to flatten the cover landing. Depending on noise levels this may be fully sealed later.

Next up: Fitting the Pusher Motor. Honest! =0)

I find it fascinating how you're finding appropriate shell parts from so many places.  I have to ask, do you think of the form/function you need then go find the shell shapes you need in blasters or do you have a wide enough knowledge of components to know straight away what would work?

Once you have the shapes you need what is your process of join them together? I see you playing with layouts,  seeing how things could work but once you've made the decision as to how you want them to be do you just file a little at a time to fit them?

Sorry if these are noob questions,  I've got the Modulus mod I'm completing at the moment and (in my own mind at least)  I've done pretty well filing together the bits I need together but my next build is a much more challenging integration so I'm interested in how you do things.

Minky wrote:
do you think of the form/function you need then go find the shell shapes you need in blasters or do you have a wide enough knowledge of components to know straight away what would work?

A bit of both I suppose... I don't know every single component, so when I do pull something apart there's usually some "what-could-we-use-THIS-for?" time. This particular build has slowly turned into an exercise in function/ergonomics over form though, so mostly I'm looking for components that will best do the job.

As part of my parallel artistic life I have what I describe as a "rummage table" where all sorts of cool, pretty or interesting materials get jumbled together to see what combinations percolate their way to the top. The same process operates with the integrations... I've got a big plastic bin for chopped up shells, while more complete components tend to pile up on the work-bench. Things live next to each other for a while before a combination clicks and something seems to "work", then the refinement process starts. Hasbro makes it easier by using similar dimensions across different blaster ranges - shell widths, internal layout between webs etc... so for starters it's a case of measuring and holding stuff up and seeing where things might match up or nest inside and eventually (gulp) you bite the bullet and cut a few things out to see how they fit... or not. Shifting the battery from the bottom of the grip to the top to keep a smaller overall shell envelope meant I was looking for a tray housing. For a moment there I seriously considered cutting down a RS tray(!), then woke up one morning going "Praxis Barrel". It all fitted too well not to use, even though it was a radical departure from the original plan.

It's also meant this build is getting pretty chunky so trying to keep every thing as slim and enclosed as possible, with the idea that it should be easy to stow and remove from a backpack. With the motor covers I was all set to chop up some tac-rail or the 6-round mag I'd tried on the stock-area but it was just looking much too "blocky". Follow your instincts: if it seems like a bad idea, it probably is. If something feels like it might be just the ticket with a little more work, it's usually worth the effort. So looking for something more softly shaped I dragged out a couple of Night-Finder battery-covers then a light went on and I brushed aside some other debris to find the cap off the Firestrike grip I'd originally strapped to the build. Bingo! Low-profile, rounded edges, a perfectly placed web to help join couple together and comes with screw-ports in exactly the right spot. Looks better than any 3D printed one I've seen and the even the colour matches(ish). Win!

Minky wrote:
Once you have the shapes you need what is your process of join them together?

Ideally, I'm looking for joins to either be overlapping (to take a place-holder screw and then glue later) or butting existing webs together (again with screws, then glue when it's sorted). The aim is to use NO bog/putty and make an assembled blaster as robust as possible prior to glue... all that usually goes out the window by the end of a build though. This design principle can act as a bit of a straight-jacket but at the same time it's nice to have some sort of box to at least start working inside rather than "anything goes". Just don't be too wedded to it.

Shell-halves have so far has been glued up with 2-part epoxy (Araldite), but moving to Devcon with this one. Screws generally removed afterwards and holes/crevasses filled with car-bog and sanded. Final detailing done with small chisels and engraving tools (great on ABS and bog...).

Minky wrote:
once you've made the decision as to how you want them to be do you just file a little at a time to fit them?

After sawing out, my most commonly used tool is a Vallorbe brand jeweller's 6" double-ended half-round wax file. High quality, really sharp, both rough and fine cuts - a very versatile tool. Next is a pair of jeweller's end-nippers (see image above). These cut absolutely flush at the ends and can often trim things much faster and neater than filing. A good sharp 1/4" chisel rounds things out (I use one of these with a push-cut over pulling with a Stanley knife/craft-knife). Anything else that comes to hand too. The actual fitting is pretty incremental, yeah... This build I'd treating as a model for a more "finished" version down the track, so not being overly anal about perfect fit. Freeing me up just to try things and fuck up if that's the way it rolls. Working so far, but internally I've probably taken a few things away that I might regret soon with the pusher-box...
UK Foam

Love the motor cover design

UK Foam wrote:
...motor cover design

Cheers! Those 180's are going to submerge even further into the shell (~1.0mm?) once I get the Artifact cage aligned properly with some washers, so the covers can be fitted even closer to the body yet =0)

Thanks for replying in such detail. I've been thinking I need to add micro files to the tool armoury and that jeweller's file looks like a good halfway house between them and the big boys.  Cheers.

Flywheel-motor cover: even closer fitting

I may actually have gone too close now. Oops. Guess we'll find out when I solder up the wiring loom...

Fitting RS Pusher-Mech

RS pusher-box with FK180-3539 in place.

Ready to be fitted into Demolisher body. I'd initially thought about mounting the box vertically and had cleared many of the webs in preparation for this, but because I'll eventually try for a 3-switch wiring loom this time I need to put the box in horizontally so there's room underneath.

Marking out for first cuts on the internal shell.

Note I've left in the wide horizontal web to use as the top-guide for the box. It could have been left MUCH wider...

See now how the box rests up against that horizontal web. Clean this web up nicely where it will contact the box as it acts as an alignment guide for later. Note also that the motor cover section of the pusher-box butts hard up against the rear-most web of the blaster. Talk about squeaking in the fit!

Trial cuts through the outer shell...

Jam-door switch left in. Holds door shut and may get used to activate voltmeter, but does get in the way. Nothing a bit of trimming won't fix...

Just keep trimming anything that's in the way until the box pokes out. Success! Now on to the other side:

Initial cuts on LHS internal shell. Again, there's a horizontal web we'll be using as a guide/seat for the top of the pusher-box.

Trial cuts through external shell. Always cut a hole small and open out, especially where fit and alignment is crucial (say, for a 10DPS pusher-mech...)

Fitted and cleaned up. Not perfect yet, but I'll get Artifact cage alignment sorted before the final tweeking of the pusher.

RHS fitted and cleaned up. Again, L/R alignment and rotation may change slightly, but at least it's dead level inside the shell. Check out how much that motor pokes out! Will have to go find another Firestrike to cover that.

Almost there!

21/01/17 Update - Minimised Rapidstrike Stock

... because my arse DID look big in this:

Cuts made into stock along existing ridge-lines then bent into shape. A little rough and blobby still, but the technique will work well in future. This is one area of the shell I'll have to go over with bog and a carving chisel afterwards to properly refine the final form.

Front of angled support arm has been cut away underneath to allow for bending upwards to meet the stock at the right angle...

Masked on the exterior then filled/glued with epoxy:

Put a lot of effort into getting the lines of the build to match and flow:

Somehow with the glue-up here though I've landed between the stools a bit... That'll teach me not to screw it down first Embarassed

There are so many different angles going on it's not tooo bad.

Nightfinder pusher-motor cover:

Could have used another Firestrike butt-cap but running low on those and may have to re-do flywheel covers if they turn out to be too closely fitted.

Nice pert little backside now. All those unsightly screws are just there till we do the final glue-up.

Still need to do something about covering the pusher-box on the LHS, cover the hole left by the original stock attachment point, extend the mag-release switch, glue the shell-half fragments, tune the alignment of all the dart-train components, fit the internal tactical-torch and laser-sight, fire-control switches, voltmeter and modular power box and then wire the bastard up... but otherwise, almost there Wink


That's a lovely blaster. Great take on the Rayven thing! Me Gusta!
The Dark Kitten

Good God that thing looks nice
I must say also the bits and bobs you've out onto it are very innovative such as the NF motor cover.
It is very good to see people not relying on 3d printers and going back to basics!

It's been great watching this form and it's looking great!

When you're considering those angles what are you looking to do? (Please bear in mind I have no training in design or art so I just see things as,  'I like that' or 'that's a mess' without being able to say why.)

Justajolt wrote:
Great take on the Rayven thing!

Cheers matey! She's a stout wee lass compared to a Rayven, but feels great nestled into your shoulder.
 I do like 'em solid...  Very Happy

The Dark Kitten wrote:
... going back to basics!

Ah, the old ways, the true ways!

Minky wrote:
When you're considering those angles what are you looking to do?

Here it was mostly about looking to continue the existing lines. With the one on the shell heading to the hand-grip base, "almost right" was so obviously "wrong" I went back and tweaked the Stampede thumbhole til they lined up; this last one kinda joins three short angled lines from the front of the jam-door over the shell and down the stock support-arm... ish...

Subtle to the point of anal maybe, but it all adds up in the end  Cool

26/01/17 Update: Internal Laser-sight Fitted

Got over-excited and pushed ahead with some of the internal tactical-gear installation:


Just putting some quick pix up for the mo... full detail and more pix later. More sensible Tac-light going in on the other side...

Chiselling out seat for the holder. This is clamped in place by the three surrounding screws passing through the internal shell of the Demo (so it's solid...). The grub-screw to lock the sight in place in the holder is accessed through a new hole in the top tac-rail.

Opening up the shell to fit the body of the sight.

(Having tried this orientation, I'll be moving the switch back to the LHS of the shell so all the wiring is on the same side.)

Mounted far enough out so you can still access the elevation/windage adjustment screws.

Also... somewhere along the way with tweaking the pusher-box alignment, the Artifact cage managed to sort it's own L/R alignment issues. I don't have to shim that at all now - it just plonks onto the pegs. Win!
WRONG! Found I DID need to shim out by 1.0mm. See later post on the next page...

04/02/17 Update: Internal Tac-Light Fitted(ish...)

Finally back at the bench today for a bit... moving along and getting that torch installed:

Clockwise from left: Torch head with lens, LED, electronics and +ve/-ve terminals / body of torch / end cap with switch (too big to use this time...) / dowel for custom terminal adaptor / AA battery (we'll run 2 of these...)

Cutting it down to length. Baby lathe and even babier parting tool. Awwwww... so cute!

Cleaning up inside edge of cut with scraper.

Seat cut into shell for torch head.

Chiselling out channel to seat body of torch.

Initial fitting complete:

Power: 2 x AA's housed in the original battery tray for the targeting laser, red-dot reflex sight and tac-light. It'll be easy enough to make up a spacer and use a single 14500 if I ever get one.

Switches: there'll be a few scattered about of various types and capacities: 1 to toggle between the laser and the red-dot sight, a momentary thumb switch for this, one for the tac-light, one for the volt-meter and a single master-switch controlling both the 7.4V and 3.0V circuits. The black rocker-switches are over-kill, but I prefer their action over boxy little slide-switches. May yet pop a fuse in there too.

Sling Point Attachment:

Brief pause before the big push to fire this puppy up, and thinking ahead to actual use...

An over-the-shoulder cross-sling seems more versatile to me than a single-point harness as you can throw the blaster right around to the back and out of the way when necessary. I always liked the way the Rayven's sling-points were sited for this. So far though The Hushpuppy had none, so something had to be done:

Starting with a Rapidstike's under-grip sling-point:

Chiselling out the webs and shaping the screw-point to seat the bar.

Not enough room to get a sling clip through there though, so needed to cut further into shell:

Neat. Will have to cover that hole later...

Going for a velcro band to attach lower sling-point. Balance is good and all seems to work well so far.

Next up: 3.0 volt accessory-circuit wiring.

Nice work as always matey. I've just given a friend a Demo as a present so I'm gonna pass on the way you've sighted the 3v stuff internally. I've also been able to do some work on Project Ambition and also need sling mounts,  I've got my own idea how to make one but if that fails don't be surprised if you see a version of yours popping up on that thread Smile

Minky wrote:
Nice work as always matey

Hey, cheers man  Very Happy

Those tac-lights are both standard-issue AliExpress items... your mate can probably get the set delivered to his door for under NZ$10. I'm still tossing up whether it's worth getting a proper reflex sight through there too instead of the Nerf-tastic plastic. So far though the build has been more about exploring what could be done with the platform while still keeping it practical... it's unlikely to ever see any "real" action. At least by NIC standards anyway ;0)

I'll post more detail on how all the parts need to be trimmed to fit once I get to the actual wiring. Looking forward to seeing movement on Project Ambition... you've been distracted by a couple of other projects!

**Update** 15/02/17: Laser/Reflex-Sight Switch Install

You can see in the pic here I've re-positioned the contacts in the battery tray for 2 x AA's. There's room here now if I wanted to put in a switch to swap to 2x14500's in parallel. The three-position switch shown will toggle between the Laser Sight (via an additional momentary switch), Off and the Reflex Sight. Tac-torch and voltmeter will be on separate switches behind the tac-lights themselves.

Voltmeter Install

Trying to keep all the motor wiring on the RHS shell-half, so have opted to put the voltmeter up top. Once again, making use of the perennial combo: A Nightfinder butt-cap and some Builder's Bog...

Prior damage / Chainsaw file / Problem sorted!

Looking at it now from a design point-of-view, it's a shame I had to use the same element (Nightfinder battery-cover) for this AND the pusher-motor cover... seems a bit wrong. The volt-meter housing is a much better use of the shape though, so I might just have to find another Firestrike so all the motors are covered by those :0( Still have to find something to cover the mess made by the pusher box on the LHS shell-half too...

Next up: Working on a new vid showing a tear-down of the build-to-date... stay tooned!

I have been following this build for a while, fond of bull-pup configurations. The way you have melded all these random parts together so cleanly is incredibly impressive, it looks like it was molded in one piece!

Tres cool.

How are you going to bridge the shells with your 3v circuit,  JST behind the tac light and laser?

Did you use a bit of off cut for the orange 'ramp' on the Voltmeter holder?  (and did you place this into the putty in the same way as the Voltmeter?)

Are you still going to have a killswitch on the 2s circuit/side as well?

jja wrote:
... The way you have melded all these random parts together so cleanly is incredibly impressive, it looks like it was molded in one piece!

Hey, thanks :0) Many Bothans died to bring us this... I think we're up to 11 blasters now - and still counting.

Minky wrote:
How are you going to bridge the shells with your 3v circuit...?

Did you use a bit of off cut for the orange 'ramp' on the Voltmeter holder?  (and did you place this into the putty in the same way as the Voltmeter?)

Are you still going to have a killswitch on the 2s circuit/side as well?

1. Yes, bridging for 3v via JST - just for the torch on the RHS.

I'll have to pop something similar on the volt meter too as I want the on/off switch for it on the LHS next to the torch's switch. Left myself bugger-all wriggle-room for this - ended up needing to shave some of the Artifact cage to clear the screws holding the display in place - but at least it doesn't need to be 16AWG and the crossings will all be in the same spot just f'wd of the cage.

2. The "ramp" is made from a off-cut from the Praxis barrel (now battery tray). Initally I thought I'd just use bog but the front of the ramp where it met the display was going to be too fragile so looked in parts bin. Blow me down if the Praxis' angle wasn't perfect to use and have a flat section flush with the underside of the Nightfinder piece. Had to hand-chisel the bog to fit, and it'll get further trimmed then epoxied in place later. The screws will hold the display all by themselves.

3. A lot of thought going into the kill-switch idea at the mo... Initially I was planning a DPDT in the same spot on the other half of the shell to do duty for both 2S and 3v, but now the three-position 3v switch has sorted that side of things and thinking I might try a 2S kill-switch on the front of the (removeable) battery box itself where it's easily accessible by your off-hand but still protected by the fore-grip. Having it here would also mean your could de-activate the entire battery when it was removed. Possibly use a FET in there to enable a smaller (or cooler... like with lights...) push-button switch. All that would mean expanding the battery box though so might just have to happen later. Keen just to get this thing firing!

Hahaha you had me at lights.

I know what you mean about getting so far through and getting that 'itch'  to just see it flinging some foam.  I managed to fire off the Typhon the other day with a LiPo at storage charge installed and although I'd tested it all and knew it was all working on the bench it was still great to feel it as one working piece in my hands (well one half I guess, still have to do the RC integration).

Minky wrote:
Hahaha you had me at lights.

Idea  Idea  Idea  Idea  Idea  Idea  Idea  Idea  Idea  Idea  Idea  Idea  Very Happy

Dammit, the thing just continues to refuse to fire without batteries... so had to put off everything else I'd promised (sorry... no vid yet...) and do something about that pronto:

03/03/17 Update: Battery Tray and Battery Box Fettling

This was always going to be a defining part of this build, so I wanted to get it right.

Motors are FK180-3539's recovered out of deceased RC helicopters. These came with their own 2S battery packs, but needing something here with a bit more ooomph. Settled on Samsung INR18650-25R's a while ago because
i) they're physically tougher than Lipo's (I like their power-tool lineage...)
ii) I had a Nitecore i4 charger that could manage them
iii) I could get them here cheaper than an equivalent Lipo and
iv) they fit the space (I was looking at a few other positions before I even thought about using the above-grip tray).

YES... there are infinitely better 18650's and vastly superior Lipos that will fit too, but could we just get past that please Rolling Eyes

There will be two (2) XT-60 male connectors hard-mounted inside the Praxis-barrel battery tray. One will be wired to connect to the female XT-60 connector on the battery box when it's inserted "upright" to provide power to the motors. The other will be hard-mounted directly above it but upside down and not wired in at all. The idea is that this would kill a few birds with one stone: the battery is placed low and forward for balance, is removable in much the same way as a power-tool battery (easy access for fast changing, solid lock-in-place, "satisfying" action...) but also stowable in the blaster body in "safe" mode when inserted "upside-down", sidestepping both the need for a kill-switch and separate battery storage during transportation.  

So... the build. First off, I had to finish that part of the shell. You can't really see it here, but I've split the front part of the Praxis barrel so the two halves of the battery tray could be separated out onto their respective shell halves (easier for wiring and assembly later...). This meant there needed to be something more solid clamping the front end of the Praxis barrel battery-tray to the barrel-shroud. Enter the Praxis stock's reinforcing-bar cover:

While I was at it, I minimised the side tac-rail to use as a cover for the shitty saw-job I did there before. Shortened the posts so the rail still registers accurately to the shell.

Right-o, on to the battery. Standard issue battery holder with 2x18650's in series for 2S (this will have seriously beefed up gold-plated silver contacts and appropriate wiring added). Sanding tray to fit snugly in box:

Remote control sized project box for battery enclosure. Removing/minimising internal bosses and webs so battery tray drops in. Leaving 2x bosses to take screws for lid. Will cut ventilation/cooling slots later.

Carving seat for XT-60 connector / 2x 3.2mm holes in tray for solder-lugs / groove in XT-60 to lock to end-wall:

Carving a matching rebate in end-wall to lock XT-60 in postion. Look Ma, no glue!

Recon mag-release buttons for the battery box grip-flanges:

Using cyanoacrylate (Superglue) with a primer to bond the grips. Could have squeezed in a kill-switch on the front of the box like I'd planned, but that would have meant splitting the battery tray and a LOT more faffing. As it was, everything just seemed to fit right doing it like this... sometimes, the path of least resistance IS the right way Wink

It's all pretty tight, but there should still be enough room to fit one of these 44x9x3mm 4-LED voltage indicators in there - hopefully along the side where it'll be accessible/viewable through the side of the Praxis barrel:

Carving Praxis barrel to fit battery box grip-flanges. These are on the exact mid-line of box, so will fit into the cut-outs either right-side-up (battery live) or upside down (battery safe):

HushPuppy WIP - State of Build as of 03/03/17:

So just reading the specs on those batteries each cell gives 3.7v so in series they give 2500mAh at 7.4v with a 25A (10c at 2.5Ah) does that sound right? ..and if so what motors are you using again?  Don't want to be a battery fascist (and in honesty despite the great info on here I don't know enough about batteries and their chemistries to get all 'judgey' about it) but they sound underspecced for a 180's @ 7.4v build.

Sorry, I know you weren't inviting comment on battery choice but I was curious about those batteries as I've seen others use similar.

Minky wrote:
...what motors are you using again? ... I was curious about those batteries as I've seen others use similar.

Sorry, that was probably a bit mean to try to avoid discussion on the battery choice Wink

The closest to a spec sheet I can dig up on the motors is this on Alibaba.

FK180-3539 Carbon brushed
Rating: 7.2v
Speed: 29,500rpm
Torque: 31.4Nm
Stall current: 15.5A

In practice, they seem to run ever so slightly slower and rougher than the single genuine Mabuchi FK180-3240 ("Blade 180") that I've got. Without 2 of these to put in a build I can't run an actual comparison, but the 3539's did a fine job in the Rapnadomolisher getting close to 9 or 10 8 or 9 DPS.

The Samsung INR18650-25R choice came about from following Toruk's Dart Zone posts on the subject - so more from experienced advice rather than spec sheet numbers. Latest post on the subject I think is here.. His Blade 180-equipped Tacmod builds still use the 20R version which is supposed to be slightly more responsive than the 25R (slightly lower IR), and he expands on this choice in this /r/Nerf post. u/ORlarpandnerf who he was replying to there is a big proponent of drop-in 18650's - I think his preferred ones are Sony VTC5's, but will use the Samsungs 25R's for less crucial builds.

We're limited in what batteries we can get down here in Godzone country and the 25R's were (at the time...) the best option for NZ$10 each. Blade 180's are rated at 22A stall current so even if the 3539's spec sheet is slightly off and they're equivalent to these, the 25R's should still do the job ok. If I was to get more it'd probably be Sanyo/Panasonic SAX's. I'd rather be running them as a properly welded 2S pack but haven't found anyone willing to do that here so making do by trying to build the lowest-resistance battery tray I can think up... stay tooned for the wire-up  Smile

Ha! The only other place I'd seen them used was Toruk's builds, but then again as far as the 'NIC' goes I don't get out much. /r/Nerf is too 'noisy' for me.. I spent one night on there got no sleep and learnt very little. I'm happy swimming in the comparatively smaller pond of BritNerf because I think there's guys here who can give me the answers without the chatter of people that probably don't know what they are talking about though once I've got some builds under my belt and concreted my knowledge somewhat I might start showing my stuff off to a wider audience but without a completed 'project' and my questions still amounting to a healthy proportion of the Q&A here I'm not there yet!

I get why you'd take a little bit a defensive stance on battery choice. I wasn't around for the 'Battery Wars' (tm) but there's a lot of very strong opinions about and still idiots using trustfires and such. Breeds Internet rage. From what Toruk was saying they have a 1 second 100A burst rating. I don't know what chemistry they are (and even if I did I wouldn't be sure what that means) but it sounds as if they'd be underspecced for a LiPo (at 25A continuous vs. 31A combined stall the start up of the motors will pull above continuous each time they're started) but I get the impression they're made for industrial rather than leisure use and hardier as a result.

Minky wrote:
I don't get out much.

Haha! I know the feeling  Wink

Not a million% clued up on INR vs IMR vs Lipo chemistry either... but short story is that compared to Lipo 18650's are physically tougher, and INR chemistry is somewhat more stable than IMR. Admittedly I'm using them without any of the usual protective circuitry you'd find in a power-tool battery, but I'd still trust them more than a Lipo in an industrial setting. I'm pretty brutal on my tools - and even a foam war can get rough. The figures are all over the place for burst Amp-rating for 18650's depending on who you talk to and the application they're experienced using them in. Essentially I'm cutting through all the conflicting figures and going with a recommendation from a trusted Nerf-specific source that has reliably and consistently shot hard n' snappy over a long testing period using higher stall-rated motors (3 x Blades = 66+ Amps). Not top-of-the-line spec, but decent enough for the objectives of this build and gives me a base-line to test from.

For anyone who's interested though, this 76x35x16mm 2S 65C Graphene Lipo or this 71x19x35mm 3S 45C Lipo should fit nicely into the same project box. You'd need to clear out the interior entirely leaving two diagonally-opposite screw-bosses rather than the two on the end and find an alternative way to screw the lid down, open up some ventilation ports and temporarily remove the XT60 connector before carving the locking-groove in it to make sure you don't accidentally short the wires, but essentially you'd be making a handy-sized fully rebuildable hard-case Lipo. I'm very likely to do this myself at some point in a future higher-spec'd build once I get a balance charger.

I've edited the 1st post in this thread to show a bit of the power-tool ancestry of the HushPuppy... basically an old Makita 9.6v NiCad battery and housing monstered onto a Rayven. Apart from the overall improvement in balance, the thing I love most about the "Nerkita" is just how goddamn good it feels slapping a battery in there then pew-pewing!Very Happy

**Update** 1st April 2017: Battery-tray locking mech, mag-release lever, pusher-box side-covers, YET MORE switches and a couple of lousy videos...

April Fool's Day... seems appropriate ;0)

Right-o. Not a lot of progress on the getting-the-damn-thing-to-shoot front, but a heap of fiddly detail work going on...

Motor covers: making use of the venerable N-Strike 6-mag to cover the exposed parts of the RS pusher-box.
More orange - Yay!

Got the end of the stock attachment point sawn down and glued to the rear to seal that area off too. Not sure if I've jumped the gun here, as it's been handy having that open to check the dart-train alignment. Time will tell...

Speaking of dart-train alignment... it turns out I DID need to shim the Artifact Red Cage out off the bosses it rests on. 3x 1.0mm-thick washers hand-crafted from the finest 3.2mm tobin bronze welding rod. I love that stuff - so many uses around the home! This is good, as it gives the 180 motor terminals an additional 1.0mm clearance under the Firestrike covers I made - handy when wiring-time comes round. I'll build up under the 4th screw-down point on the cage with builder's bog once I get this firing and really see how the alignment's working.

Extended the mag-release lever using a re-purposed Rapidstrike stock-extension lock:

While I was at it, I stretched open the end of the spring so it damn well stays in there... sick of the little bugger sproinging off into the void all the time!

Added a little hold-down cover here (under the pencil), but didn't get a shot of it. This stops the sliding part of the mag-lock from twisting as the lever engages it, making the movement a bit more consistent. The lever itself is trimmed a bit and snugged up inside the RS extendo-arm.

!Links! to 'Tater-Cam® vids of the mechanism here, and the mag-release in action here.

FINALLY got round to doing something about the battery-box locking mech:

Four tiny screws to tack the parts in place before the big glue-up. Handily, the bolt running through as a hinge adds an extra shell-connection point in just the right place.

Massaging the arm into shape to get just the right "feel" as it clips over the foregrip...

!Link! to 'Tater-Cam® vid of battery-box tear-down and battery-tray locking-mech in action here.

Gotta say... the "Snick-Snap-Slap!" lock n' load action absolutely makes this mod for me. I live for that shit Very Happy

And check this out: superfreakyweirdnwoobly serendipitous Hasbro design feature:

See where I have a bolt going through the fore-grip and into the barrel shroud to act as a hinge to get it out of the way of the battery-tray? I just put the drill through going "ummm... I think it needs to go about here..."

Turns out there's a boss in like exactly the right spot on the other side... SHAPED TO TAKE A NUT FOR A FREAKIN' 3.0mm BOLT! Cue spooky X-Files music!

Oh, yeah... and MORE switches for the 3v Tac-gear:
Momentary thumb-switch for the laser-sight (Pew-Peww!), rocker-switch for the Tac-torch and another for the voltmeter (???... might decide later which function this'll get assigned...)

And a connection to the 3v circuit for the red-dot sight. Seemed like a good idea at the time, but I'll probably lose this in the long-run as the sight itself is getting a make-over too.

I know it's daft but I totally get you when you talk about the tactile feel of slapping in a new drill battery, and let's face it, none of us got into Nerf for seriousness Smile

I may put in a little hold down cover over the mag lock catch on the Typhon as I've noticed it twisting in the same way with a DRS mag release extension. I figured there must be something on the opposing shell holding it true but even if that's the case it's useful to stop it turning out when you're testing on the work bench.

You're obviously a Boss diviner! Nice work!

Minky wrote:
the tactile feel of slapping in a new drill battery...

I mean, who hasn't rocked up to the job-site, strapped on their tool belt then run down the hallway dual-wielding their cordless drill and driver set shouting "PEW-PEW!!"?  I know I have...

Minky wrote:
I may put in a little hold down cover over the mag lock catch on the Typhon

Yeah, found it's good to be able to tune the fit and movement of the action with everything just in the one shell-half - that way nothing changes when you tighten the shell-screws down.

**Update** 08/04/17: Red Dot Sight

So, with everything else getting all this practi-cool loving, the Modulus red-dot sight was starting to look hopelessly outclassed.

It had to GO.

...Or did it?? Hmmmm...

Stripped out the internals on the Modulus shell, drilled out the front holes in the picatinny-clamp on the sight to take the lower-front screw-bosses (first ų5.5mm on RHS, then ų7.5mm on LHS), nibbled away at stuff till it fitted and voila!

This is the scope I got - ≈NZ$20 shipped from AliExpress. Still using the original Nerf rail adaptor but the whole sheebang sits a bit low on the Demo's tac-rail (which is why the rear end of the new sight is sitting so high in the shell at the mo...) so I've got a proper quick-release riser in the post which I'll adapt to Nerf-rails (no sense having to put picatinny on everything other blaster I own...). 60mm is the ideal length to poke through the hole in the shell-base. Yet to sort something for better access to the power-switch and the L/R windage adjustment on the LHS, also the two lower screw-bosses are still used to clamp the shell halves but work needs to be done to secure things at the top as we lost the other two. Will update with more detail and a vid when finished - possibly as a whole 'nother thread.

Dammit though... it fits. Very Happy

**Update** 14/04/17: Fire-Control Triggers and Switches

Productive week this week. Here's the existing Strongarm grip and trigger. The SA has quite a long trigger-pull so thought briefly about double-action on the one trigger, but opted for more traditional dual-trigger solution.

Initial layout thoughts / trimming and shaving shell to seat switch / trigger trimmed and fitted.

Hmmm... a pivoting Firestrike rev-trigger? / Cutting boss down / ų4.5mm screw self-taps into boss (3/16" would work too). Trigger-hole bored out to ų5.0mm.

FS trigger's integrated spring-arm fitted perfectly in SA's shell with only the tiniest shave. The "pull" ended up feeling too strong though so removed the arm; trigger now activates switch directly.

2 x 16Amp microswitches held down with screws to existing bosses. Surprisingly, this was MUCH easier than I anticipated: no gluing, bogging or guide-fabrication needed - just shell trimming. Will add bog underneath later though for everything to seat on and to take 2nd hold-down screw for each switch. Rev-switch is seated deeper in shell so it can be held by the pivot-bolt's washer and so the wiring from the pusher-switch can pass over it. Nice direct action on the switches by the triggers, good feedback with positive "click" once engaged. Spring on firing-trigger adds the slightest bit of uptake gap before engaging (just my personal preference). Pivoting rather than sliding rev-trigger might take a bit of getting used to but was way too neat a solution to pass up. Pretty happy all round. Tear-down vid soon.

I like the idea of upgrading the Nerf scopes to functional. #SleeperScope Their aesthetics blend a lot better with the blaster's, without painting the blaster milsim-ish IMO. May have to steal your pivoting rev trigger in springer pistol grip idea for an ongoing project so... Thanks! Smile

Minky wrote:
May have to steal your pivoting rev trigger in springer pistol grip idea...

Glad to be of service!

Minky wrote:

Haha! May have to use that one myself Wink

**2S Wiring Loom v1.0**

Quick sketch of initial thoughts without really checking whether all that 16AWG will actually fit yet... not sure whether or not this circuit will melt my chocolate-box either. Using Toruk's schematic for old-school UK live-centre and a 10A fuse on the pusher +ve feed. Adding dead-centre toggling too in case my live-centre set-up doesn't work so well (this is my first 3-switch wire-up...)

Away for the weekend now so will re-visit next week with a clearer head. Cheers!

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