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Kleggt
Junior Member


Joined: 28 Dec 2016
Posts: 61
Fav. Blaster: Sonic Ice Magnus
Location: Kent



Post Circuit Training  Reply with quote
Other than some vague recollections of drawing simple circuits at school I don't have too much experience in wiring or electronics. I'm planning on getting the BSUK wiring kit next month sometime so I can base my wiring off their diagram, however I'm wanting to add a few things into my blaster.

In the interest of not wanting to explode anything I quickly hacked together this, in the hopes that I could be corrected if it doesn't work.



Basically, adding in a few LEDs with their own on/off switch, a main on/off switch for the blaster, and a voltmeter to keep an eye on the LIPO.

On reflection the Voltmeter is in the wrong place, should be between the main switch and accel switch. But other than this does everything look suitable?
Tue Jan 24, 2017 3:42 pm View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
OldNoob
Foam Data Collector


Joined: 07 May 2013
Posts: 4776
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Location: In the Boonies



Post Reply with quote
You want a resistor with each LED. If you want to see it being done I made a simple video for wiring to the jam door switch or a simple slide switch.

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Big_Poppa_Nerf wrote:

Boff whats the damage? I have spent over 3 times my Nerf budget this month already. Part of me is trying to be a responsible parent/husband/house owner. The other half is just says 'Ahhhh, Screw it!'.
Tue Jan 24, 2017 4:30 pm View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Kleggt
Junior Member


Joined: 28 Dec 2016
Posts: 61
Fav. Blaster: Sonic Ice Magnus
Location: Kent



Post Reply with quote
Ah resistors, that makes sense. Thanks for the link, I will give it a watch tonight.
Tue Jan 24, 2017 4:49 pm View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
OldNoob
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Joined: 07 May 2013
Posts: 4776
Fav. Blaster: Xtreme 180 Rapidstrike
Location: In the Boonies



Post Reply with quote
For 3s or 2s 470ohm resistors will cover most  LEDs that want around a 3v forward voltage. Bright Components on ebay is my go to for all that.
The other alternative is strip LED, where the LED is pre resistored for 12v in, you can cut them in groups of 3 and just solder the wire onto the strip. They are good magwell lighting.
Also the LEDs need a connection to neural.

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Big_Poppa_Nerf wrote:

Boff whats the damage? I have spent over 3 times my Nerf budget this month already. Part of me is trying to be a responsible parent/husband/house owner. The other half is just says 'Ahhhh, Screw it!'.
Tue Jan 24, 2017 5:09 pm View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Minky
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Joined: 16 Oct 2016
Posts: 417
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Location: Derby



Post Reply with quote
I think you want the Voltmeter linking onto the negative same as the LEDs

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Tue Jan 24, 2017 5:55 pm View user's profile Send private message
SSGT
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Joined: 12 Jan 2013
Posts: 1257
Fav. Blaster: 'Rave-N' CS-18, Elite Alpha Trooper (EAT) CS-12
Location: Durham



Post Reply with quote
As it is the LEDs will not work - even when you switch them in current will simply bypass them through the wire between the kill switch and the LED switch. As ON pointed out you need to connect the negative side of the LED to ground (i.e. negative of battery). You can put the switch on either the positive or negative side of the LEDs, that doesn't matter too much. Even if they did work they'd only light up when both the main switch and accel switch were also closed.

The voltmeter cannot be wired in series with the rest of the circuit, it must be in parallel. If you wire it in series it will work (in as much as it'll show you the battery voltage) but nothing else after the voltmeter will as the voltmeter itself is effectively an open circuit (in reality it's just very high resistance but the effect will be largely the same).

You'd need to wire it something like this:


(Click image to enlarge)

I've assumed that you want the voltmeter to turn on whenever the main switch is closed regardless of whether or not the acceleration switch or LED switches are closed (if you want the voltmeter to turn on when you rev, wire it's positive lead after the acceleration switch or if you want it to turn on with the LEDs wire it after the LED switch and in parallel with the other LEDs). If you want to you can also give the voltmeter it's own switch if you want it to switch on independently but not stay on all the time the main switch is closed

I've also assumed you want the LEDs to turn on when both the main switch and LED switch are closed regardless of whether or not the acceleration switch is closed (again, if you want them to turn on when you rev wire the positive lead after the acceleration switch instead). You can wire multiple LEDs in series and use a lower value resistor if you want to save power (you throw less of it away to heat in the resistors) but if you're not sure know how to calculate the resistor values it's probably best to stick with having all of the LEDs in parallel each with their own resistor (or, as ON mentioned, LED strips that have their resistors built-in).

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Last edited by SSGT on Tue Jan 24, 2017 9:48 pm; edited 1 time in total
Tue Jan 24, 2017 7:37 pm View user's profile Send private message
Kleggt
Junior Member


Joined: 28 Dec 2016
Posts: 61
Fav. Blaster: Sonic Ice Magnus
Location: Kent



Post Reply with quote
@OldNoob I had my eye on some pre-wired 3v LEDs that might have been from that eBay shop actually, will have to double check the specs though. I am undecided between a strip and single LEDs at the moment, depending on how much shell work I want to attempt.

@SSGT Wow, thanks so much for that! I realised on my ride home that I had, in error, made everything dependant on the accel switch being engaged to work. The way you have it laid out is exactly what I was going for. Based on what you and OldNoob have suggested I may go for strip lights just to simplify the process a bit.

Will have to do a lot more research before I touch any actual wires.


Tue Jan 24, 2017 8:00 pm View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
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