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The 180 rapidstrike that lives again!

 
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The 180 rapidstrike that lives again!
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SirBrass
Junior Member


Joined: 06 Mar 2017
Posts: 55
Fav. Blaster: 180 Stryfe & 180 Rapidstrike
Location: California, USA



Post The 180 rapidstrike that lives again!  Reply with quote
So after weeks of sitting disassembled, I finally managed to get my RS reconstructed but with 180 hellcats for all 3 motors, bsuk wiring kit, and 16awg for all the wiring. I think I may have severed the cycle control upon putting it back together (testing showed that live center was working perfect but now it isn't, though pusher & flywheels are functioning fine), but at this hour I'm not going to unscrew all umpteen hundred of the shell screws to try and fix it.

Only pictures I have now are some of the completed fcg group. I'll get more pics tomorrow at the war & maybe a video.

Sure this isn't super impressive but it's only my second flywheel project & it's been my primary learning project. The following before the pics are the biggest lessons learned

*"Measure thrice, cut once" equates to "test fit thrice, strip once."
*There is such a thing as too much solder
*Flux is your very best friend in proper doses even with flux-cored 60/40 solder
*The tip you use in soldering is very important. Use a big enough one to transmit sufficient heat to both items to get a good join and not a cold one
*Twist, shape, then tin the wire, not just twist and tin before you realize you need to form the wire into a j-hook
*Doing all your wire to wire solder joins before soldering to terminals makes fitment, and splicing orders of magnitude easier.
*Shell modding for 180 motors is no big deal. Dremeling out interior channels for wiring paths is a big deal but not too bad if you're careful. But altering stock pusher boxes & flywheel cages is bloody annoying and worth paying good money just for an aftermarket cages that'll hold a 180 securely.
*Handy hands are wonderful
*Soldering xt60 terminals is really annoying especially when you finish a good terminal solder & then remember you forgot the heatshrink. Don't forget to thread heatshrink before you solder.
*I need a hot glue gun so I'll have an alternative to CA if I think I may need to reposition that darn cycle control switch.

Now for a few pictures of my novice wiring work.








Edit 1:

Here's an exterior shot & a cycle demo video.

Video:

https://youtu.be/3OCIjZMVsis




Edit 2: First war results: buggy as hell.

That seemingly mild "the live center pusher return isn't working" bug turned out to be a huge issue. Regular and constant pusher stalls, jams, and bending darts such that they were tossed from the blaster spinning like helicopter main rotors perpendicular around their vertical axis. When it spat darts right it shot them well and hard though that faux barrel sucks and I think a dart guide might be required to allow consistent feeding at the fire rates that the hellcat pusher puts out.

When I got home I cracked open the blaster to see what was going on. I hooked up the lipo and discovered nothing was wrong. With the shell open, the pusher cycle control switch arm was going up and down perfect as could be and pusher return was flawless. When I closed the blaster up however, pusher return stopped working as soon as I began tightening screws in the grip area and rear of the blaster.

Long story short, I think some varying combination of bosses in the offside shell were pressing down onto the loom in such a way as when the screws were tightened the cycle control switch was pressed closed even when the pusher was not all the way in the rear. I removed one boss (the one which would have mated up with the loom hole nearest the cycle control switch & reduced (but not eliminated) the two bosses which mated up with the other 2 holes in the wiring loom. That way, screws could still connect the parts side & offside shells together, but the offside bosses wouldn't be pressing down on switches & wiring related to the cycle control mechanism.

I put the shell halves back together & carefully tightened all the screws back in, making sure to screw them in securely but not too hard, and tested the pusher after every screw. I have it working again now I think. We'll have to see tomorrow if it stays fixed. I'm just glad I didn't have to remove the loom & then have to resituate all that wire.

Now I just need to figure out how to make a dart guide for the artifact red cafe such that darts that aren't pristine can be effectively slid into the flywheels without getting bent. That and where to source a smooth bore Nerf barrel that'll work in the RS.


Last edited by SirBrass on Sun Mar 12, 2017 1:43 pm; edited 4 times in total
Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:24 am View user's profile Send private message
OldNoob
Foam Data Collector


Joined: 07 May 2013
Posts: 4826
Fav. Blaster: Xtreme 180 Rapidstrike
Location: In the Boonies



Post Reply with quote
Well done. I spent months trying to get my first one to work.



_________________
Big_Poppa_Nerf wrote:

Boff whats the damage? I have spent over 3 times my Nerf budget this month already. Part of me is trying to be a responsible parent/husband/house owner. The other half is just says 'Ahhhh, Screw it!'.
Sat Mar 11, 2017 8:59 am View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
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