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Regular Member

Joined: 14 May 2016
Posts: 202
Fav. Blaster: OOOOOOOHHHH Nemesis.........
Location: St Annes

Post  Reply with quote
Right well I've intended to do one of these modification/build in progress/follow step by step threads for a while and took photos along the way of my latest rapidstrike build I've done....... but this isn't technically a work in progress thread as the blaster is finished and had its debut to great effect at GuN12. So anyway no further ado I'll get on with it.
Well this all started due to the excellent YouTube posts by Oldnoob (FDS) and his various RS builds including the one done for Drac.

So I obtained a RS and gutted it knowing I was changing everything inside practically and proceeded to attack the main shell with my Mikita multi-tool with great ease and effect the digi-camo was no more, each half took literally 5 mins.

Then proceeded to cut out for the hellcats.

And then due to a few reasons this as far as it went for a few months, as I actually started this build back in June lol.........
Basically awaiting on parts from china and the Hobbymods group buy (ran flawlessly by Franksie I might add!!) and hugely due to the purchase of a new house meant the blaster was put unto the back burner.
Because instead of modifying the blaster I had to channel my efforts on modifying the house lol

Then due to working on the above for 2 - 3 months none stop in every spare slot of time I had in between sorting kids and working nights decided to take a long weekend break and treated the kids to a small holiday before all the money was completely gone lol

So on our return it was the turn of contractors to take over and do work on the new house with a new roof and damp proofing through out the ground floor and basement, so I could turn my attention back to the RS.
By which time my parts I was waiting on had all arrived so a Gavinfuzzy 180 cover was glued into place and a adapted machine indicator lense for the pusher 180 cover (borrowed from work lol) also glued into place and then the spraying started. Various coats applied with rub downs in between each coat, firstly the grey plastic-coat primer.

Then once happy with the finish the silver was applied in the same manner.

After this everything was masked up leaving just the bits I wanted black left exposed.

Once all the above had fully cured it was time for the main colour top coat, now this choice was left completely to the wife and after seeing the final result I must say she made a good choice, she was given given 3 choices Red, Green or Blue in candy hence the silver base coat.

Now the next stage I blame Oldnoob for lol with his part 1 & 2 hydro dipping tutorial .....
with the obvious " oooooooh that looks good" and the "how hard can it be" some film and activator were ordered.

Well considering the fact I had never hydro-dipped anything before I was very impressed with the results and myself for how well it turned out, now don't get me wrong it is far from perfect and I'm a long way off Oldnoob's level but I am still happy with the result.

Once fully dry and cured the internal work was started, now you've all seen the internals of an RS, and the fact I was getting excited to be near completion I forgot to take photos but into the blaster went 3 hellcats, Blastersmiths UK 3 switch high power kit with mosfet and 3D printed mounting plate  and also these.

The blaster was then put together and left as at this point it was 1am on a Saturday morning.

This was the sight the wife came down to in the morning lol!!

Now as said it was now Saturday and in particular it was GuN11 Saturday morning so a Lipo was connected (a 4 x 1.5v alkaline test pack was used during the build process) but as soon as Lipo connected the pusher motor went hell for leather and wouldn't stop ! Nooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!
With no time to split the shell again and investigate I had to go to GuN11 without out it in my arsenal.

So when I got back it was left for a week due to manly sulking lol and after a swift crack around the back of the head and told to get it sorted by the wife the RS was split open again.

I had a suspicion of the reason for the pusher constantly running and when I got the shell open and checked with the tip of a small screwdriver my suspicion was confirmed.
The microswitch which was glued in place for the pusher arm obviously hadn't fully set when I stopped holding and left it, and the spring tension in the switch had moved it slightly so even though the switch arm was being hit by the pusher arm it wasn't enough to activate the microswitch.
So with the use of 2 pairs of needle nose pliers and some brute force the spring arm had been bent to a shape/profile which activated the switch with the pusher arm!!! Yaaay happy teddy again lol.
So all put back together and the RS looked this.

Sorry for the image being upside down.

Now this is how I thought it was going to remain, but no Franksie intervened again by organising a Jase3d group buy and after looking over his website some RS goodies were duly ordered.
Which were fortunately posted and arrived and fitted before GuN12 so with the goodies fitted along I went to GuN12 and WOW I am so impressed with the performance but also at the same time control with the triple hellcat set-up.
But this is the final look and very happy I am indeed. Hope you like it too.

Thanks for reading.
Sun Jan 08, 2017 11:46 pm View user's profile Send private message
The Dark Kitten
Game Organiser

Joined: 24 Sep 2015
Posts: 486
Fav. Blaster: Stryfe Hydrodipped w/ Buffer tube
Location: Manchester

Post Reply with quote
Old but.....something odd and interesting to tease.

This by the way is the start of an ARTIFACT Retlaiator. The bottom is the "standard" artifact barrel designed for the retal....the top one is designed for the longshot. It does work. ive tested the barrel and the breach fit and it looks compatible.

Itll be attached to a Sonic Ice Retaliator that'll be dyed purple with Gavins Pump grip. Apart from the dye everything is either in the post or in my possession


ZHoM founder. Cat Overlord
Fri Jan 27, 2017 1:39 pm View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Veteran Member

Joined: 03 Nov 2016
Posts: 259
Fav. Blaster: Doomlands Desolator
Location: Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire

Post Tri-Strike Mega Launcher - Multi shot maddness Reply with quote
Are you thinking of trying to mod the Mega dart launcher that comes with the Tri-strike?

Don’t bother! It's a ballache!

I’ve always fancied an underslung masterkey shotgun. Rather than just the one shot projectile, like with the Demolisher missile launcher, I really liked the idea of a single pump multi-projectile shot. It could be used when you really need to hit someone/something, or to just get you out of trouble when the enemy are closing in and you need a few seconds to reload or clear a jam.

I was quite excited when I first picked up a Tri-strike because of the pump action Mega dart launcher. It was a shame that it only fired a single dart each time; though if you really slam the pump back you’d often get 2 darts launched. Unfortunately it’s quite a bulky barrel attachment, and so it needs something to butt against to stop it wobbling about. And frankly, it looks terrible attached to some blasters.

However, in a fit of modding fury, I went home from work last night and rewired a Rayven so I could run some IMRs in it, cos I like the Rayven, and wanted a better flywheel for BB6. While doing so I thought to myself, “I wonder how silly this will look with the Mega launcher added to the front?” Well, the answer is “not that silly”. What’s more, there’s enough shell material around the barrel of the Rayven to mean the fit is secure and pretty solid. And it was then I thought to myself, “if I remove the smart AR system all the Mega darts will fire together. If I improve the seal on the plunger tube, it should give enough poke to get all 4 darts to fire a respectable distance rather than flop out the end. I’m going to be a god when it comes to clearing tight corridors and escaping zombies!!”

If only life was that simple, eh?

Removing the pump and plunger is the same deal as on the Demolisher. The O-ring seal is non-existent, so many, many layers of PTFE tape need to be added to even allow the O-ring to get anywhere close to sealing the plunger tube. I also added a second skinnier O-ring that I had kicking around to further improve sealing. A healthy dollop of grease to the inside of the plunger tube and plunger head and immediately it worked better. Sure, it still had the random double-fire on some shots, and the final shot was always lacking in the oomph of the first shots, but it was considerably better than stock performance.

And this is where I should have stopped for the evening….

I decided to try and get to the back of the AR itself. The barrel attachment is held together by 4 screws (plus 3 in the pump handle), so off came the pump handle and out the body screws came. In line with Hasbro’s current intolerance with people taking blasters apart, the whole upper section is solvent welded together. Most of it split apart with persuasion, but the orange muzzle tip would not give way. Boiling water, solvent remover; nothing worked. So I Dremel’d the bugger off the end. Even then, there are some posts inside that have been glued together, but with the application of gentle persuasion [read: swearing and yanking] they eventually snapped and the shell came apart into its two halves; leaving the firing mechanism to play with.

There are no screws on the firing mechanism. The whole thing is solvent welded together.


There is a tiny hole on the back of one of the AR cylinders that allows air to flow either way. Well, seeing as I wanted maximum pressure in the system, I filled the hole up and let the filler set hard. Upon testing it became apparent that with 4 darts fitted a near perfect vacuum is now created, meaning it’s almost impossible to extend the pump handle. Firing performance however is still better than standard, but the AR system struggled to deliver airflow fast/efficiently enough, and so compressing the pump handle didn’t result in any noticeable improvement, and the usual double-fire on several shots still randomly occurred.

It was at this point I decided to try and remove the ARs themselves, and see how good it was as a Mega spam cannon. Because the AR unit it fully glued at the rear I tried going in through the front of each barrel; using a socket extension to punch out the dart posts, hoping the AR and springs would be able to fall out. Unfortunately the ARs are still held in place behind the barrels, so even with the posts out, they still operate as they should. However, without the dart posts in place the sealing on each AR is less than perfect, and so the near perfect vacuum when darts were installed was lost.

For now I’ve put it all back together and am going to come back to it over the weekend. I’d really like to get the ARs out without taking the back off the unit, but I feel this may be nigh on impossible. I’m trying to see if there’s a drill bit in work I can borrow that’ll be long and wide enough to drill out the bottom of each barrel so the ARs can fall out, but no luck yet. I also wonder if the ARs are built slightly wider than the barrel bore, which is thicker at the base, so there’s no way of getting them out of the front. It may be that I need to hacksaw the barrel cluster off at the base, remove the ARs, then re-glue the barrel cluster back in.

There’s a part of me that’s thinking of cutting the top of the AR matrix off, removing all the ARs, then sealing it so just the bottom two barrels are actually live. The two redundant upper barrels can then be used to house a flashlight or something similar. However, this does mean I’ve only got a HAMP that fires 2 darts, rather than a 4 dart shower; which is what I’d set out to do initially.

Does anyone else have any experience or ideas with this system, or am I missing something simple? I’m going to continue to play around with this for now (putting the hopper feed for my Atlas on hold for the time being), and I’d like to have it ready for BB6 in Feb, so that I can rain down Mega thunder on those buggers who like to gather in the shelter at the end of narrow corridors and pin me down with their LiPo full auto!

For anyone else who has one of these attachments, I'd recommend either fitting some chunkier O-rings or adding a lot of PTFE tape (or both), then greasing the plunger head and tube. You'll get a noticeable improvement in firing, and a definite POP! whilst at the same time the rapidly compressing air provides some damping to stop the horrible bang of plastic on plastic that you get on the standard system. Other than that I don't think there is much that you could really do with this system.


[Edited to move to Mod WIP sub-forum]

And so the weekend came round and I stripped the Mega launcher down, again, to see what I could see. After far too long of just staring at it and poking bits with a sharp knife, it became apparent that the firing mechanism is totally solvent welded and not coming apart any time soon.

Out came the Dremel, then the hacksaw.

Not the cleanest of cuts granted, but at least the barrels are off, and the pesky ARs are out at last! I'm now left with the task of sanding the ends of the barrels and the corresponding part of the firing mechanism flat, so that I can glue the barrel tubes back into place. Once that is done I can actually reassemble the mess and try test firing it to see if it actually works in the manner I'm hoping for: a volley of 4 Mega darts blasted at once with a half decent velocity and range, rather than a "pffffut" followed by 4 darts falling at my feat.

I'm pondering seeing if I can make some sort of screw in tube blanker, so I can choose to fire between 1-4 darts depending on what's loaded. While 4 darts at once is the dream, I'd settle for 3 darts shot at a decent velocity, and use one of the tubes for a tacti-cool flashlight.

Tune in next time to see if I ever bother to finish this project, or if I get distracted by another stupid idea....

So yeah, I like the Mega Centurion. A lot. Like, an unhealthy amount.
Mon Jan 30, 2017 11:13 am View user's profile Send private message
Foam Data Collector

Joined: 07 May 2013
Posts: 4834
Fav. Blaster: Xtreme 180 Rapidstrike
Location: In the Boonies

Post Reply with quote

Pictures resized in above post. Please use the large thumbnail size from Imgur, if you don't know how to do this, add a non capital "l" for Lima in between the end of the image link and ".jpg"

Big_Poppa_Nerf wrote:

Boff whats the damage? I have spent over 3 times my Nerf budget this month already. Part of me is trying to be a responsible parent/husband/house owner. The other half is just says 'Ahhhh, Screw it!'.
Mon Jan 30, 2017 11:29 am View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Nerf Addict

Joined: 07 Jan 2016
Posts: 696
Fav. Blaster: Space badger / spam cannon combo
Location: Central Scotland

Post Double Dealer Reply with quote

Recon mk2 stock (thanks Dusty) added go the clip storage on the DD
Using a bsuk stock adapter.

Very comfy on the shoulder now, perfect size.

Thats all the internals done, just the cosmetics to do.

Crrrick Crrrick    BOOOMFF !!!
Sun Feb 12, 2017 7:24 pm View user's profile Send private message
Senior Member

Joined: 16 Oct 2016
Posts: 417
Fav. Blaster: Rampage
Location: Derby

Post The Typhon: Loading...... 58% complete Reply with quote
I finished all the internal wiring of the Modulus portion of my build..  Although now I'm looking at it I want to add another Laser and a couple of lengths of LED tape or ribbon or whatever it is.  Anyway,  after squeezing it all back into the blaster I ran through the circuits (on 12v alkalines, check for the voltage drop!) and rather than make my build log thread even more picture heavy than it already is I thought I'd share some pics here because I'm pretty proud of it so far.

Always on, running lights and Voltmeter

Magwell lights activated via jam door switch

Magwell lights activated via mag lock switch

Motor circuit fore LED

Motor circuit aft LED

Motor circuit Heart of a Damn Star in the motor bay

Trigger circuit LASERS!!!

Obligatory dark shot (though I know realise I didn't have the jam door open, doh)

So that's 11 LEDs and 2 LASEREDs.
If things go to plan.. And if I get tempted as I was indicating earlier.. The total will rise to 29 LEDs and 3 LASEREDs.  Shiney.

If there was any other way of doing this without being the biggest damn hero you have ever met..  I'd still do this.
Mon Feb 13, 2017 9:09 pm View user's profile Send private message
Game Organiser

Joined: 25 Jan 2013
Posts: 819
Fav. Blaster: I wanna Nemesis!!
Location: Leeds

Post Reply with quote
So, it's no secret i love springers, and the Apollo is my favourite Rival blaster (till the Nemesis comes out Smile ). There is something so satisfying about loading your mags through the grip....

But i hate the gears (they broke) and i dislike the claw (it means i can't holster it) so these had to go.

So this is my working but needing some shell work to finish it off 'minimised and simplified' Apollo. With a blue one for size comparison.

I'll post some internal pics if anyone is interested in a full write up when it's finished.

Grim up Nerf -
Wed Feb 15, 2017 11:14 pm View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Game Organiser

Joined: 31 May 2015
Posts: 985
Fav. Blaster: Demolisher
Location: Leeds, UK

Post Reply with quote
So, using BigAls post as a basis. I spent a few hours yesterday modding my Standard Death Trooper Blaster

Some comments: this thing explodes when opened, and opening it is a challenge, thanks to the orange tip ring. Putting it back together isn't too hard, the bits are fairly obvious about where they go, but its all under pressure, so needs three hands and speed...

Spring wise, I thought that since its effectively a glorified triad, the bsuk one might work... nope, too thin. Tied the bsuk elite, too long. Tried the bsuk roughcut one, too strong. Finally managed to get a Jazzo Sazzo spring to fit. And not explode when fit back together, and prime reliably. It needs a very strong prime, fail to get it to catch and it will still fire...

When I got the blaster, I really enjoyed the lights and sound. But wanted a way to fire without them... I picked up a cheap led switch, and decided to fit it out of the way on the faux magazine. Of course I misjudged the size of the switch, and hadn't bothered to check what the wiring was like...
The answer is a nightmare, theres a tiny wire from one side of the battery tray and a large circuit board literally part of the other side of the battery connector. Then there are tons of super thin single strand wires, which are only as long as they need to be. I snapped the main feeds from the logic board to the leds just getting the thing open!
I ended up soldering some extensions to the leds to give me room to work, and split the short power cable, running cables to the switch. Couldn't figure out how to get the led to work with so little cabling to work with.

My final change was to add some Sugru to the hand grip. This is by far the worst grip on a Nerf blaster I own. It makes the modulus and messenger one look super comfy. A small chunk under the trigger guard to fill in the gap there. Some at the bottom to make more of a finger stop, and two strip on each side to soften / round out the grip.

WolfPack Leeds - New Nerf combat in Leeds -
Sun Mar 05, 2017 5:44 pm View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Nerf Addict

Joined: 28 Dec 2014
Posts: 901
Fav. Blaster: Rapid Red
Location: Edinburgh

Post Reply with quote
I;ve been going about my 3d printing in a slow, methodical way, finally got fed up with that crap and decided to switch to a 33/33/33% mix of ABS, other people's good design, and blind optimism. Still having some adhesion issues with lifting mid-print, which is annoying but this seems to have worked:

An Openflywheelproject high-crush cage, with hellcats to match

Not ready to fit yet, needs more cleanup and waiting for an BSUK rapidpistol kit for it, so it'll go in the Uglystryfe first for some testing. But here it is having a look around its home.

(don't tell nobody, but the first attempt came out beautifully, except I'd accidentally used "flip" instead of "rotate" in slic3r so it was a perfect mirror image)
Sun Mar 05, 2017 9:35 pm View user's profile Send private message
Nerf Addict

Joined: 07 Jan 2016
Posts: 696
Fav. Blaster: Space badger / spam cannon combo
Location: Central Scotland

Post Reply with quote
Think I've got all my bits and pieces so will hopefully get at least some done at the weekend.

Going for a cross between the late 80's arcade game Splatterhouse and the Neil Marshall film Doomsday for this one.

got the chain sling mount and barbed wire knuckle guard done.

Crrrick Crrrick    BOOOMFF !!!
Thu Mar 09, 2017 8:09 pm View user's profile Send private message
New Member

Joined: 14 Feb 2017
Posts: 17
Fav. Blaster: Stryfe
Location: Oxfordshire

Post Reply with quote
My first Stryfe mod is in progress. So far have cleaned out the battery tray to (just) fit a 3S LiPo, and swapped out the stock motors and flywheels for Rhinos and balanced Worker wheels from BSUK following vid and forum posts from OldNoob/FoamData.

Just all the soldering and wiring to go Very Happy Getting a little help from a friend to read the wiring diagram as well as following the FoamData vid.

Last edited by Filadams on Sun Apr 23, 2017 12:51 am; edited 1 time in total
Sat Apr 22, 2017 4:11 pm View user's profile Send private message
Nerf Addict

Joined: 12 Jan 2013
Posts: 1273
Fav. Blaster: 'Rave-N' CS-18, Elite Alpha Trooper (EAT) CS-12
Location: Durham

Post Reply with quote

Image code fixed. The URL must end with an image file extension (e.g. .jpg) without any characters after it. If the URL has characters after the file extension you have to remove them for the image to display properly.


Trust me, I'm an engineer! Very Happy

Antonius wrote:
Compoooter bits make shiny Nerf blaster go whoosh!
Sat Apr 22, 2017 8:41 pm View user's profile Send private message
Junior Member

Joined: 13 Dec 2016
Posts: 32
Location: Cambridge/Durham

Post Reply with quote
Meddled with my Rayven today. Didn't feed properly, the trigger was horrible and the performance was appalling. I started by doing the obvious thing of trimming out the plastic around the trigger linkage.

if you'll look closely you'll notice that the flywheels in there are white - I swapped out the motors and flywheels for those from a donor Stryfe I'd already nicked a bunch of parts off. Result: Much quieter with just a little bit more oomph. It's still running on alkalines and it's still using the original wires, though rewired to take the thermistor and the electonic locks out - a stop-gap until I can order the 18awg and 2S LiPo which are to be its fate Smile

The trigger pull was still twang-y and nasty though, I so salvaged the pusher spring from the same Stryfe and set this up:

The spring is held onto the pusher by a series of small holes drilled in the arm - I only had a 3mm bit available, smaller would have been better - and held into the body by an M3 bolt which is screwed into a pair of nuts set into a blob of epoxy putty. Not a terribly clean job but totally solid. I then had to build a new ledge for the pusher arm to slide along because the angle of the spring was pulling the pusher off-centre - this is made of styrene card, poly-cemented together and reinforced with epoxy resin.

Finally, lubricated all the moving parts. Result: Well, it's basically a reshelled stock Stryfe now, so it works and feels a damn sight better than it used to Razz Now to bring on the heavy duty stuff  Twisted Evil
Fri Apr 28, 2017 3:01 pm View user's profile Send private message
New Member

Joined: 20 Feb 2017
Posts: 7
Location: Caerphilly

Post Reply with quote
So the plan here is to use the LSFG pump to prime the Longshot. I've never been keen on the external bars connecting to the normal priming bar, so I'm working on a way to connect the pump internally directly to the bolt sled while reinforcing the sled at the same time. So far, just some shell work:


Edit: Seems I can't link pictures...
Sun May 14, 2017 4:49 pm View user's profile Send private message
Nerf Addict

Joined: 12 Jan 2013
Posts: 1273
Fav. Blaster: 'Rave-N' CS-18, Elite Alpha Trooper (EAT) CS-12
Location: Durham

Post Reply with quote

Image codes fixed. Image URL MUST end with a file extension (e.g. ".jpg"). If there are any characters after the file extension (in this case "?1") then you have to remove them.


Trust me, I'm an engineer! Very Happy

Antonius wrote:
Compoooter bits make shiny Nerf blaster go whoosh!
Sun May 14, 2017 5:14 pm View user's profile Send private message
Junior Member

Joined: 13 Dec 2016
Posts: 32
Location: Cambridge/Durham

Post Reply with quote
So I got myself a Rey blaster as an exam present to myself, since they're on clearance at Smyths at the moment. I'm well aware of the terrible performance but the shell is so damn cool that I wanted one anyway. Having taken it apart, I believe I've identified the two key problems affecting its performance.

Problem 1: Performance. The floating plunger head has absolutely no air seal at all. Like, none. You can block the end of the tube and the plunger head will move just as easily as with it open.

Problem 2: Reliability. The dart tooth is supported by this little bar behind it, which retracts when the priming slide is forward. This bar can flex so much that when priming, the dart can push the tooth hard enough that it forces the bar to retract, meaning the dart doesn't get pushed into the plunger tube far enough to release the AR and that the dart can get wedged on the tooth.

The plunger head issue is a simple one to fix, just a bit of teflon tape needed. The dart tooth is more difficult, I'm thinking I might be going to make a supporting frame behind it out of styrene to stop it from flexing as much under pressure.

I'm hoping dealing with these issues will give a somewhat more elegant solution to the blaster's problems than the typical stick-a-squished-retaliator-spring-in-it solution which seems to be popular.
Wed May 17, 2017 12:24 pm View user's profile Send private message
Junior Member

Joined: 16 Oct 2015
Posts: 64
Fav. Blaster: Nerf Rapidstrike
Location: Hertfordshire

Post Nom Longstrike Reply with quote
After acquiring a Longstrike from my friend, I instantly decided that it has to maintain its 'Sniper Status'. So hence this buid began. The main concept on this build is to fit a Buzz Bee Big Blast tank, into the shell of the Longstrike and then stick a brass breech on the end. I am still yet to decide on what breech setup I will end up doing, however it will be designed to take full length darts. The barrel of the breech will initially be 17/32 brass tubing (12 in), this will then be sleeved at the end with a shorter length of 9/16 brass. I am doing this due to a lack of longer lengths of brass available. I'm sure there are ways of finding longer imperial lengths but this should be ample for full lengths.

I am using 5mm poly-carbonate sheet for the lever support bars. I also chose to make the tail of these brackets rather long so that if I have to remove the trench on the side of the shell, the large part of exposed tank can be neatly disguised. I am also using all M4 hardware for the mounting, this includes a length of M4 stud that will be used at the pivot bar. Pictured are the various lengths of brass and other components that will be used in the build.

"Don't Nerf guns do that already? They shoot 30 meters, look it says it right there!"
Thu Jun 08, 2017 9:44 pm View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
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